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Two or three possible algae?

Discussion in 'Algae' started by Moontanks, Apr 19, 2017.

  1. Moontanks

    Moontanks New Member

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    Location:
    California
    This is my first tank/aquascape and recently planted (2weeks). It is a 5 gal tank with 4 cherry shrimp, 6 crystal shrimp, 14 neon tetras, 7 xwing tetras, 2 pea puffers, and 1 reticulated hillstream sucker. I feed them all blood worms (about 3/4 of a frozen cube) and keep the tank at 74-73F. The water is clear and the plants receive about 10-15 hours of light a day from a Wave point 12" 16 watt 6500k daylight. My filter is a Aqueon quiet flow 10 and I do a 25% water change about every 3 weeks. The last change I did was 6 days ago to cleanup the over feeding from the flakes that the fish did not like. I wall also feeding Algae wafers and shrimp wafers but they didn't seem to like them. About 3 days ago I noticed algae forming on my driftwood and it is hard to scrap off (syphoning doesn't work). Also my glass has green dots on it which I'm assuming is just normal algae that my sucker will eat and the shrimp will eat it off the rocks. Any suggestions on getting rid of this algae and what it is? 20170419_155150.jpg 20170419_153253.jpg
     
    Last edited: Apr 19, 2017
  2. keithgh

    keithgh Moderator Staff Member

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    Moontanks Welcome to ASW

    I wish you had joined before you had started your tank as I can see several concerns that could have been avoided.

    This is my first tank/aquascape and recently planted (2weeks).
    Does this mean it was planted 2 weeks ago or the tank is 2 weeks old?
    Was the tank fully cycled how was it done and what were all the water parameter tests results.

    http://www.aqadvisor.com/
    I strongly suggest you run this program and post all the results please.


    Tank lighting 12 hours is sufficient do you have a basic 24hr timer that way you can control the lighting on and off times.

    That is a big NONO two 35-40% twice a week is far better and healthier for your plants and inhabitants.

    That Algae is normal for new tanks and will pass the green algae is different.

    Are you using Carbon in your filter if so please remove it, its not required at the moment its an excellent product to use after treating the tank with medications.

    Do you use a Bio starter eg Seachem Stability at all if so when?

    Can you do a full water test and post all the results not "Its all OK" plus how it was done test kit etc.

    I don't think this is what you were expecting but its better to tell you earlier rather than later.

    Keith:cat::cat:
     
  3. Moontanks

    Moontanks New Member

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    The tank was planted and stocked 2 weeks ago (I know your supposed to wait a month for cycling before stocking, but I was told to add a few fish the help the process).

    GH 0, KH 0, PH 6.0-6.3 (I will go get treatments to bring it back to 7.0 tomorrow) NO2 0, N03 30 Using API 5 in 1 test strips
    Ammonia is between 0 and .25ppm Using API master test kit

    I am taking out the carbon filter today to treat cotton mouth on two of my Neon Tetras. I have to dose the whole tank because I do not have another empty tank.

    I have been using API Stress Zyme+ each week and Flourish Excel every 2-3 days

    I took out the drift wood and bleach treated it, but I don't think I am going to put it back in the tank. The place that I bought it from told me it was probably mold not algae.

    My Dwarf Puffers have shown no aggression or notice of the other fish and stay together swimming around.
    20170420_014256.jpg

    Here are the results of the program: Screen Shot 2017-04-20 at 1.35.17 AM.png
     
  4. keithgh

    keithgh Moderator Staff Member

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    Moontanks

    I hope it was not an experienced fish keeper or your LFS
    Using live fish to cycle a tank is not the practice done today other than being very cruel you are actually slowly poisoning all the inhabitants.

    They are considered not to be very accurate.

    Should be "0"

    Usually comes with the fish directly from the LFS. Because the bacteria thrive on organic wastes over stocked tanks, The same bacteria could be in your 175% stocked tank

    Did the same LFS sell you all your inhabitants?
    I think those results speak for them selves.


    That could be correct.
    Take it out give it a good scrub then hose it clean.

    Keith:cat::cat:
     
  5. Moontanks

    Moontanks New Member

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    All my fish came from the same store, but I do not know if the came from the same source. They seem to be "Experienced" and the store has been around for a while.

    What is the best way to get the Ammonia level to 0 and to maintain the ph level?
     
  6. keithgh

    keithgh Moderator Staff Member

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    Moontanks

    Let me put it this way none of my LFS's would not have sold you all of those fish.
    [​IMG]
    Maximum size: 3 inches +

    Your tank has several concerns at the moment especially the high Ammonia
    1 Remove the 7 x wing tetras, 2 pea puffers and, 1 reticulated Hill stream sucker as a starter this will reduce your tank to a safe "Capacity" it will also reduce the fish waste.

    2 Massive water changes 50% twice a week for at least 1 month, this should help to reduce the Ammonia.

    3 At every water change double dose with Seachem Stability not a LFS "Is as good as" unless its the Sera Bio Starter.
    This will get your Cycling process moving along very quickly.

    4 While this is happening your pH will be all over place, what ever you do under no circumstances add any thing to adjust is all it will do is take more time to fully Cycle your tank.

    Re calculate your feeding for the Neon Tetras only, reduce it by 50% and only every second day, it will not kill the Shrimps or the Neons its what they have been through could easily kill them.

    Keith:cat::cat:
     
  7. keithgh

    keithgh Moderator Staff Member

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    Moontanks

    Any updates on the water concerns you had? What inhabitants do you have in your tank now?

    Keith:cat::cat:
     

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