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Spiderwood and driftwood

Discussion in 'General Aquascaping and Planted Tank Discussions' started by Nigel95, Jun 18, 2017.

  1. Nigel95

    Nigel95 Aspiring Aquascaper

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    Thanks!

    I also like anubias petite nana maybe in the front of the aquarium between the rocks. Not sure If I can plant it right because the rhizome can't be in the substrate.

    This is one I could get
    5-10 cm high (same problem with the rhizome)
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 28, 2017

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  2. keithgh

    keithgh Moderator Staff Member

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    Nigel

    You have a lot of plants there and it could very easily mean all your twiggy bits will be over grown and hidden plus it could easily look like a garden salad a big mix of leaves.

    I would try to limit it to no more than three varieties in fact one variety could be very interesting and very natural.
    Next point is it going to be a wild natural look or a manicured look?

    Keith:cat::cat:
     
  3. Nigel95

    Nigel95 Aspiring Aquascaper

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    A natural forest look is the goal. With three varieties do you mean included the mosses or only plant choices? I Might stick to crypt parva I guess and Maybe some anubias.


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  4. keithgh

    keithgh Moderator Staff Member

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    Here is a link to Aquarium Mosses my only advice would be keep it very low as not to hide the twiggy pieces.
    ]http://www.theaquariumguide.com/articles/aquarium-moss-101

    If you could get A nana petite and secure it to a small piece of old DW and press it into the substrate (Not covering the Anubia at all) it will slowly travel across the substrate.

    Please remember I am not a plant expert. I did have both those plants in my last tank.

    Keith :cat::cat:
     
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  5. keithgh

    keithgh Moderator Staff Member

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    Nigel

     
  6. Nigel95

    Nigel95 Aspiring Aquascaper

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    Rescaped it and banked the soil somewhat higher. I think it gives a little bit more depth.

    Front 3 cm
    Left and right back 10 cm
    Central back 6 cm

    Should I bank it up more in the back what do you think?

    Scape on pic looks relative flat because bigger Stones are used in front.

    Currently struggling with how I am keeping the spiderwood in place when flooding. Zip ties Will be visible and also not easy to attach. Glue is possible but would it ever be removable? Should it stay in place when buried in substrate with some small lava rocks around it? I guess not because lava rock and substrate is very light. So this makes the zip tie and glue option also not really an option…

    Beside that I hope no mold issues on lava rock when dsm. I can't remove rocks once roots are glued to the trees.

    IMG_0010.JPG


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    Last edited: Jun 30, 2017
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  7. keithgh

    keithgh Moderator Staff Member

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    I would prefer to see it in your tank before I answer that question. I "might" suggest raising the left back another 3-5cm as you can not see the right side plus you do not want both sides looking the same.

    While you are setting up the hardscape in your tank can you soak all the twiggy pieces
    Re the twiggy pieces when you have finished the hard scape place the soaked twiggy pieces in positing and plant all your plants as required ready for the DSM.

    Could you use a high grade SS screw as they would not be seen if you countersink them a little.

    I would start soaking/cleaning your lava rocks now.

    I would carefully remove the twiggy pieces and continue soaking them until they have sunk and you have completed the DSM then, you can carefully replace them. They can be temporarily held down with a few rocks and remove then as required.

    Ask Zeus about the possibility of mould and removing if necessary as I think it will slowly disappear.

    Keith:cat::cat:
     
  8. Nigel95

    Nigel95 Aspiring Aquascaper

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    Thanks

    Would the small roots stay in place when doing water changes if they are not glued?





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  9. keithgh

    keithgh Moderator Staff Member

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    I assume you mean twiggy roots on the DW? That all depends on the timber as some timber will never sink.

    While soaking them if they will not sink then you will have to find a method of holding them down. A rock leaning on a piece in a natural way would certainly look OK.

    When doing a water change use a watering can with a shower head, by doing it that way no strong water stream.

    Keith:cat::cat:
    [​IMG]
     
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  10. Nigel95

    Nigel95 Aspiring Aquascaper

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    All the 'trees', roots and rocks are in a big bucket. Hopefully they will waterlog in 4-5 weeks as then I am planning to set up the scape. Can I keep the water in it or do I have to change it? I received some fissidens fontanus which I pasted on a lot of rocks. They are currently in DSM in a glass bowl. This is just an experiment if the yoghurt method will work and will also give me a head start on the scape. Only disadvantage is I have less sides to use of the lava rocks to make the base under the roots. But w/e going to be a nice puzzle!

    Plan is to use suction cups on the bottom of the glass tie them with fishing line to the trees to try to keep them in place. Beside that I will zip tie them to some lava rocks so hopefully that will keep it all in place. Going to try to keep the soil in the tank, when applying the suction cups I am going to try to push the soil beside. Hopefully that will work.
     
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  11. keithgh

    keithgh Moderator Staff Member

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    If the wood releases tannin's or just to keep it clean I would change the water every 7-10 days it may also pay to hose them down to remove any loose bits and pieces.

    No harm in trying as long as you are following all the correct procedures.

    My only concern there the suction cups will break down over a period of time, concider a few options one suggestion would be small river stones the substrate would hold them in place.

    Keith:cat::cat:
     
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  12. Nigel95

    Nigel95 Aspiring Aquascaper

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    But if the suction cups ever break the spiderwood Will be waterlogged right.

    Currently can't choose between
    1) suction cups with fishing line, But how do I know they stay in place when making corrections.
    2) egg crates on the whole bottom and zip tie the trees on it. But have to remove substrate rip bacteria? And I can't really decide the angle of trees w/o substrate.
    3) My favourite. Using slate and screw through them with the wood on it. This way I can still angle the wood and it seems pretty safe to keep everything in place. Only thing is the slate parts in store are big. With 12 trees I need to make them smaller so I can still 'scape'.

    Oh boy the last thing I want is everything floating. I hate I have the risk of that…


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    Last edited: Jul 4, 2017
  13. keithgh

    keithgh Moderator Staff Member

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    Correct that is providing you can water log those twiggy pieces.

    I went to a garden/tile supplier and bought some damaged tiles and pieces.
    They are very easy to cut to a size ask where you can get them.

    If you are using SS screws make sure they are a high quality as the cheap one will actually rust.

    Keith:cat::cat:
     
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