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Rhizoclonium

Discussion in 'Algae' started by Paulzant, Apr 18, 2011.

  1. Paulzant

    Paulzant New Member

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    Jul 9, 2010
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    Location:
    Netherlands
    I just have started up a new tank, I'm almost 3 weeks up and running now.
    these are the specs.

    Nano Cube 30L
    Dennerle CO2 (now around 40mg/l)
    2 x Dennerle nano light 11w (4 hours on 2 hour break and another 4 hours)
    ADA Amazonia subtrate
    ADA Powersand
    Nano Filter

    Ferts:
    ADA Brighty K and ADA Step1

    Water changes:
    50% after 3,6 and 7 days. after that twice a week 50%

    I think I have upcomming Rhizoclonium on my moss, so its hard to clean of from there. Should I do daily water changes of 50% and a black out of 3 days? Or anything else I should change or do?
     
  2. Orlando

    Orlando Supporting Member

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    Location:
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    This is by far the worst type of algae in my opinion, in the world. Best of luck to you my friend. If it were my moss, I would have to start fresh and ditch the enemy at hand.
     
  3. Garuf

    Garuf Moderator Staff Member

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    Location:
    Leeds, England.
    James' Planted Tank
    Have a look at the algae guide on here.
    It's a symptom of too much light insufficient co2 and is generally speaking a real git to get rid of, using a single 11w and using the cover glass and floating plants will help you get the light down real low and help break it and get things under control, every day water changes will be useful too. Good luck!
     
  4. ghostsword

    ghostsword Aspiring Aquascaper Staff Member

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    Location:
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    I took my moss, wrapped it on cling film and placed it on a dark cupboard for a week. I then sprayed it with a very weak (really weak!) bleach solution and placed it again on the cupboard for two extra days. It fixed the problem. :)


    .
     
  5. Paulzant

    Paulzant New Member

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    thanks all for the tips first gonna try to crank up the CO2 and decrease lightning and do daily water changes see if that has any impact. if not I will try the dark cupboard method or just take it all out.

    thanks again
     
  6. wearsbunnyslippers

    wearsbunnyslippers New Member

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    i dont see what the big deal is, i would trade clado for rhizoclonium anyday!

    i always seem to get rhizo in my fresh setups...

    decrease your lighting as mentioned, increase your macro dosing a bit, and this will clear up on its own, once your filter starts to mature a bit...
     
  7. Orlando

    Orlando Supporting Member

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    Thats funny. I would trade rhizo for Clado any day of the year. What cause rhizo I have no idea, nor do I see how other folks determine this either. How can you know for sure what causes certain types of algae?
     
  8. Garuf

    Garuf Moderator Staff Member

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    I believe James guide was written in association with the Barr report and ukaps' Ceg, if so I think they probably used scientific testing.

    Either way, that's the best guide I've come across along with Dusko's slightly more eccentric guide.
     
  9. Wwh2694

    Wwh2694 New Member

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    Location:
    Texas
    I have this kind of algae in my newly setup tank. I used hydrogen peroxide directly on it the plants survive and the algae turned white. After few days i only seen few algae growing on my plants. This algae is hard to combat i tried overdose excell, i up my co2 did water change and cleaning the tank every other day that didnt help. The only thing helped was hydrogen peroxide. But you got to make sure to turn off your filter and no fish when doing this. I had mts snails and the all crawled up the tank after the treatment. Did water change and aerate the tank realy good. The next day mts are all hiding in substrate and most of that algae is gone and didnt came back.
     
  10. plantbrain

    plantbrain Aspiring Aquascaper

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    Location:
    California, USA
    You actively attempt to grow it.
    Few do this however.

    This still does not imply that there is only one set of variables that will induce growth, there's may be two or more, as is the case with GSA.

    Poor CO2 and lower PO4 will both do it or both of them together.
    Time delays also play a large role.

    Rhizo is rather a quick fix and not that common or nagging of an issue. Clado is more like a pesky moss or Riccia you cannot get rid of because it infest and sticks to everything.

    GDA is pesky for many, but I have not be able to culture it, and I've tested many suspects with that one.

    I agree with the folks here, the light is too bring and too much attention is paid to the CO2 test and not enough to simply slow and progressively adjusting the CO2 up SLOWLY, then observe for 2-4 days and see, of the issue persistent, then a tad higher, watch fish etc.

    This is more a relative measure of CO2.
    You start with the pH/Kh relationship and then slowly adjust up from there.

    This is not something to rush or be impatient with however.

    Regards,
    Tom Barr
     

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