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Discussion in 'Aquascaping Journals' started by Ohly, Aug 25, 2013.
Can you have too much CO2? Provided that your fish are not showing signs of distress?
As far as the plants are concerned no. Fish and shrimp would disagree.
Doing my own research, it seems that many people like to have a CO2 ppm around 30 ... It does not disturb fauna..
When all seemed to goes well, the micro creatures of my tank wanted otherwise...
I left the tank alone for 2 days, by this i mean i put my spare time somewhere else than on the tank, and it goes bad...
The cyano got really agressive.. and took twice the surface if has covered before..
The only parameters that had changed : i put some ground oyster shell to get my ph higher..
It works great, now i have a ph that slowly increase!!
Other problem showing up,
Planaria... They killed one of my cherry today.. they're also visible on the glasses.. so i had enough and i started the No planaria treatment..
The BGA and the planaria are signs of water quality problems, in a sense a dirty tank. Why do you want to raise the pH? There is no reason to get hung up on manipulating the pH.
Because the water was too acid .. now its getting neutral
Why do you think it was too acidic? pH below 7 is not uncommon in a planted tank. You do not need neutral pH. Acidic water is not the source of your tanks troubles.
Well its a bit because my fishes normally lives in Ph over 7, according to my research, the Ph sweetspot for all living in the tank would be around 7 - 7.3 ..
About the water quality, the tank seems to need at least 2 water changes a week.. would it be a sign of dirty filter?
Ooh and by the way, someone at my job told me to get a UV filter, he said he is using one to filter his pond..
I don't know what to think about it.. maybe its because he use it for a pond, maybe its because he always know everything on everything that bother me... Anyway I know some reef tank use thin kind of UV filter..
A UV filter will not help. They are often used to filter ponds because ponds are exposed to sunlight and can get green water otherwise. pH that is decreased by CO2 isn't that important and the fish will be fine. You seem to be constantly manipulating a lot of variables which can prevent the tank and system from stabilizing. You are keeping galaxy rasboras, correct? How often do you clean your filter? It should be cleaned once a month. I rinse mechanical filtration, stuff like filter floss and foam in the sink until the water rinses clean. Biomedia I rinse in a bucket of tank water or dechlorinated water to get out most of the trapped particles.
Again for all but the most sensitive fish manipulating the pH is not needed. Really, pH is just a measurement that can represent something else. For example, high pH indicates there may be a lot of carbonates in the water and commonly be found with hard water. The pH is not a problem, but for some fish and plants hard water could be. Likewise, low pH is an indirect measure of something else like maybe there are organic acids in the water like humic acid or tannins that decrease pH. It could also mean there are few dissolved minerals and carbonates and the water is soft. pH is not the important factor here, it is what is in the water that the pH level represents. Again, I want to emphasize that if you are keeping galaxy rasboras and dwarf shrimp like neocaridina heterapoda you do not need to mess with the pH.
I don't even bother measuring my pH. I have no idea what it is in my tanks. Probably between 6 and 7.
To an extent, fish can be tough too. They can adapt to your water conditions if they are slightly different to their natural habitat. In my opinion, it would be more appropriate to let your pH move naturally as it can be an indication of what is going on in your tank. For example, when I was running my CO2 24hrs a day (before I had fish) my pH was down in a similar range to yours (often measured at 5.5). This indicated to me that I needed to change something. In my early days of keeping tropical fish tanks, I would often also find that my pH would be very low if I neglected my tank and it was an indication my water quality was poor. It was a sign I needed to change something. if you fix your water quality, your pH may just fix itself without manipulation.
It's important to disassociate ph with co2, they're different and in a non-co2 set up you're right a plunging ph can be an indication of something arise, however, when you're falsely stimulating ph by injecting co2 you can no longer use this as a parameter to asses what is going on in the tank and this is where having an excellent maintenance regime comes in.
are all worthwhile reads.
Tanks for all your very helping answer,
The weird thing is my water quality after a water change seem to drop quickly ...
Also i tested all parameter yesterday.. and i have nothing with amonia, nitrite nitrate .... Is that normall after a water change the day before
How are you measuring your water quality drop? What are the symptoms? Are you dechlorinating?
Testing is largely pointless on a planted tank, ferts will give false readings and hobby grade test kits are so inaccurate they're pointless to use. Add in what you know you need, water change regularly to remove organic build ups and repeat.
If you're chasing parameters for dosing this suggests that you could be well under dosing kno3 which would be another cause of BGA but a lot less common.
I am assuming the quality was dropping quickly because the rate the algae were thriving changed drastically in 3 to 4 days.. as the algae can quite reflect the water quality depending of the observed algae ..
Hey Ohly, how'd you go with your tank?
There is a video update coming soon,
Unfortunately my tablet have difficulty uploading the video...
Hi Ohly Maybe soooon
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