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New 60 litre aquascape.

Discussion in 'General Aquascaping and Planted Tank Discussions' started by JohnnyWales, Sep 11, 2012.

  1. Garuf

    Garuf Moderator Staff Member

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    Cutting with RO would be wise as this would also make it easier to get co2 into the water column. That ladder diffuser really isn't going to do you any favours but I've already mentioned this. Did you not win the regulator?
     

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  2. JohnnyWales

    JohnnyWales New Member

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    Hy guys, long time no chat, been in South America, checking out the rivers. A dream, perks of a Guyanese girlfriend.


    I soaked my wood 4 weeks ago, and let it dry, now it's floating again, wtf!!!

    Do I have to completely resoak???
     
  3. keithgh

    keithgh Moderator Staff Member

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    Johnny

    Seeing its floating its back to the soaking again sorry to tell you.

    Any chance of a few photos of the rivers there please.

    Keith:):)
     
  4. JohnnyWales

    JohnnyWales New Member

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    Will get them up

    I was facinated with the geography of the gutters/rivers/wild creeks, brown water with leaves, sticks and very very little green!

    Abundant life of guppies and other small fish.

    One day the road flooded on the main street, after tropical storms and that evening we waded out (barefoot, as it was 35 degrees) and shone a torch on the surface, the eyes of the small fish could be seen, however the size of the tilapia swimming past the chicken shop and rummaging in the (now submerged) garbage bins, it was a fantastic experience.

    Im off to the Guyanese interior and Suriname in May, but i will get photos up soon.

    I left my rasboras with leaves and a little flake before i left, i came back and my RCS population was decimated! Lucky they are breeding like rabbits.

    Last night when trimming my hairgrass, i found one of my girls giving birth, behind a rock at the back of the tank, very cool!

    The old edge is beautifully green atm, with lots of plants thrown in floating, waiting for the driftwood to finally soak!

    Shown below, *this is not scaped* im merely holding the plants in here ready for planting my new 60L.
     

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  5. keithgh

    keithgh Moderator Staff Member

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    Johnny
    Sounds like great fun.

    I have been to one town in the Northern Territory Aust when the big rains come so do big floods but the difference the BIG Crocodiles swim in the main street and into homes if not closed securely enough.
    Last time I was there a little 4ft snake was in the service station and no one was concerned locals said it was harmless so leave it alone.

    Keith:):)
     
  6. JohnnyWales

    JohnnyWales New Member

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    Kieth, complete delirium tonight. Went to the tank to feed the minions, and I notice free swimming fry! Looks like a strawberry rasboras!!! So heavily planted I never knew. Also I noticed 5-10 Shrimplets over 3 weeks old with full pigmentation. Amazing. Add that to the birthing on Monday and my colony is ever growing!!

    However on two fish (strawberry rasboras and cpd) I noticed white spot. Now this terrifies me to my soul.

    I took them out and now they are in an isolation tank (bucket) with filtration, but what now?

    Plants and shrimp and fish?

    I read that esha exit can be used for white spot with shrimp???

    Terrified and don't want to loose a whole tank to this HORRRIBLE disease again.
     
  7. keithgh

    keithgh Moderator Staff Member

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    Johnny

    White spot (Ich) can be a massive concern if not treated correctly.

    An Isolation tank will treat the fish but not the tank as it will be in the substrate and possibly your filter.

    Here is plenty of info Re Ich

    Treating Shrimp ????

    I will PM where to go for help.

    One point only buy what is recommended not the LFS OH this is the same and it will do?

    Keith:):)


    Here is some very useful information about "Ich" White spot. I strongly recommend you copy a print this out for future reference.
    After you have read all of this information and if you have any further questions please come back and ask any parts that you do not fully understand.


    WHITE SPOT ICH
    White spot Parasite, Ichthyophthirius multifiliis

    This disease is easy to recognise, as the skin of the infected fish becomes covered with white spots, each the size of a pinhead. Each spot represents the site of one, or sometimes two, parasites. All parts of the body gills, may be attacked.
    The causative agent is named Ichthyophthirius multifiliis. It is a spherical and large by protozoan standards, measuring up to 1mm in diameter. Short, hair-like processes known as cilia are spread densely over the surface. A horseshoe-shape nucleus is also present which is clearly visible under the microscope.
    By the means of the cilia the parasite rotates vigorously and burrows into the surface layer (epidermis) of its host. It feeds on skin cells and surface debris. The burrowing action causes a local irritation and the epidermis grows across the parasite to enclose it, thus forming a “White Spot”
    Reproduction occurs away from the host. After maturing in the skin, which takes a few days to three weeks, depending on the temperature, the parasite bores out, swims away and comes to rest on a submerged object such as a stone, or plant. Here it forms a jelly-like cyst within which a series of rapid cell divisions take place. In a few hours, several hundred daughter cells or swarmers are produced, which break out of the cyst to find a new host. Alighting on the skin, they burrow in to recommence the life cycle. If they fail to find a host within three to four days, they perish.

    Symptoms
    If the protozoan is introduced into a tank containing healthy fish, little harm may occur, other than a fleeting infection with a few parasites. If however, the fishes are already weakened for some other reason, e.g. lack of oxygen, the parasite will quickly cover the whole body surface, causing irritation and opening up wounds for secondary infections. The host mobility may become affected. In severe cases, death may result.

    Prevention
    If white-spot appears in an otherwise healthy tank, the parasite “must” have been introduced either as an adult on a newly acquired fish or as the cyst form on, for example new stones, a plant or even added water. The only certain method of prevention, is to quarantine all new stock, including stones, plants etc; preferably in water at a temperature of 77F. Allow one week’s quarantine.

    Treatments
    There are too many treatments today to recommend any specific one. Many can be bought easily at aquarium outlets.


    Several very interesting points to think about.
    Very easy to recognise.
    Its reproduction cycle.
    No host they will die.
    If introduced into a healthy tank little harm may occur.
    Pay attention to all tank details.
    Weakened fish and lack of oxygen can/may and will cause severe deaths. All this is usually caused by poor tank maintenance and/or incorrect and faulty equipment.
    Prevention is the best cure
    A Parasite “must” be introduced into the tank.

    This information was collected from Fresh Water Tropical Fish
    Compiled by Keith
    *************************************************************************************
    TREATING A TANK and Scaleless fish

    Clown Loaches and other scaleless fish require a special White Spot cure. I have seen it said that this is not so just use any WS cure at half strength and that will do. That is totally wrong even at that strength it will become dangerous.
    Only use the "CORRECT" WS cure and only use it at the correct dosage as per instruction on the bottle. Also check the UBD "Expire Date" to be on the safe side.
    Melafix can be used in conjunction with the WS cure it will not cure it at all but it will reduce the stress on the fish.

    Now for the treatment.
    Only used the prescribed amount and times recommended.
    Remove any carbon filters if you are using them.
    Add extra air this is beneficial to the tank as well.
    Bump up the temp slowly. By doing this it speeds up the growth rate of the Ich and this kills it quicker.
    Turn of the lights if you have a fully planted tank this will not hurt for a few days at all.
    Reduce the feeding by 50% they won’t feel like eating any way and you could easily have other problem with the uneaten food. I would feed them with small amounts of "Frozen Blood Worms" at least 3 time a week this will keep their strength up remember a healthy fish will survive the Ich problem a lot easier.

    Treating the Tank
    You might not see any WS after a week BUT it has not all gone and by this I mean the treatment must be continued for at least a total of 3-4 weeks. This might sound a long time but it will be worth it.
    I would still carry out your weekly water changes and when you have completed the tank treatment a 50% of treated water change would help for the next two changes.
    Then you can replace or add a carbon filter for at least 2 weeks and toss it out completely.
    I have had WS with my CLs and they as well as all fish worth the extra time and effort in removing the Ich.
    Finally take all the precautions and try not to get it again
    The more you start reading "Reliable information about Ich the more confusing it gets" Experienced fish keepers have their own particular method and product brand name.

    Extra information added 6/2010
    I would recommend a quality know brand name that is suitable for the fish in your tank.
    Next check all the following
    The UBD
    Is there enough information about dosages and how to use the product.
    What I like is there a contactable WWW site for extra information if it is required.

    Once you have selected the medication that suits your tank and you, there are several things that it is strongly advised to do.
    1 Only use as directed. This is a must and this could vary from brand to brand.
    2 Reduce the feeding by 50% and only every second day.
    3 Add extract aeration.
    4 Increase the temp slowly by 1 degree a day. I would take the temp up to 29c degrees. And certainly not 30+
    5 Turn off the lights, this helps to reduce any stress on the infected fish.
    6 I personally would use Melafix to help in reducing stress, and Pimafix to prevent any secondary infections. This could happen if a fish is rubbing its self on the substrate or a rough surface or it is a bad infection.
    7 This again is a personal preference. The Ich must through a life cycle and this can vary with the strain of the Ich and the temp of the tank.
    I would keep treating the tank for at least 3 weeks and this should completely kill and remove all traces of the Ich.
    8 Then comes the Carbon treatment.
    Use it for 3 days then toss out
    Use it for 4 days and toss out.
    Use it for 7 days and toss out
    By now all traces of the medication should be gone.
    9 When replacing the Carbon a water change would certainly help.
    10 Water changes during treatment will depend on the medication used.

    I think I have covered everything if not someone will fill in the gaps.

    I do have tend to be a bit over the top when using any medications, I don’t like using them at any time.

    Finally at every water change keep you good bacteria healthy by adding a recommended dosage of Seachem Stability.
    ************************************************************************
     
  8. Garuf

    Garuf Moderator Staff Member

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    Good info from keith, the fry is more likely CPD, rasboara's are blackwater fish and are extremely unlikely to have bred in londons extremely hard water.
     
  9. JohnnyWales

    JohnnyWales New Member

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    Top quality information.

    The Cpds wer introduced to the tank and the fry appeared 3 days later. It's about 4 weeks old, and all I have is lam chop rasboras and strawberry rasboras.

    Have to wait and see if more appear, one so far and it's so confident enough!
     
  10. JohnnyWales

    JohnnyWales New Member

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    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1355610814.264609.jpg

    There she is!
     
    fordayzbro likes this.
  11. Garuf

    Garuf Moderator Staff Member

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    Hmmm, looks more like a livebearer to me. Bought anything from a tank with guppys or something like that in there?
     
  12. JohnnyWales

    JohnnyWales New Member

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    I bought a set of Mollies which brought the white spot in, and they wer taken to a friend who has quarantine tanks.

    But i netted them off individually, unless the female gave birth a few hours after being dropped in, she didnt looks pregnant tho!

    The wood is almost sunk, id say 80%. Its killing me though, and my pots of 1-2 grow are starting to die.

    My christmas moss went yellow in the pot, so i washed off the gel and put it into the plant tank, hopefully with a bit of light and liquid carbon it will come back?
     
  13. Garuf

    Garuf Moderator Staff Member

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    There we go then, it'll be the molly's!

    Can't help with the moss, normally I find once it's yellow it never comes back.
     
  14. JohnnyWales

    JohnnyWales New Member

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    Flipped the wood for abstract unconventional look and i hate it.

    I know the plants are all vitro and cutlets but damn it looks bare. Removed it from my edge, revealed all my shrimplets, fish ate them all. Mare.
    Im running a rena xp2 cannister, pressurised co2 and 3 wpg t5s.

    Hc along the front and then moxed stems at the back. Hairgrass at the back of the sandpit and various mosses over the wood.

    Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2
     

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  15. keithgh

    keithgh Moderator Staff Member

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    Johnny
    Let me put it this way I know you can do 99.9% better but it might develop into ???? but I doubt it.

    Keith:):)
     
  16. JohnnyWales

    JohnnyWales New Member

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    I am aware Keith, but thanks.

    I planned and planned, but it appears i miscaulcuated the depth and the amount of plants that i have are all small and perhaps flatting the depth of the wood.

    In one respect it was the first time i used all my new ebay haul of heaters, press. co2 and cannister filtration. Nothing went wrong so thats good.

    IM flying back home to Ireland soon, and im just going to leave it for now, let it grow in a bit, perhaps put in taller plants before i go.

    Essentially, the wood could no longer be lying in the bath soaking, so its weighed down by a stocking of sand.

    Wasnt a huge fan of the Oliver Knott stuff, as the granules are a bit big and light.

    Ive tied the wood with plenty of moss, and under thelights (3wpg) and co2, i hope they will flourish.

    At the end of the day, im never going to create wonderland like the journals i see. Im still massively learning.

    Im sure Keith you can see how far ive come since starting in terms of patience.

    It will no doubt be replanted and re scaped. BUt for now im happy just to move it from floating in the EDGE and into its intended tank.

    I boght a tiny 15l acrylic tank in a £ store for my painted reds safety, to many allow to rebuild a colony. I went from having a great sized colony, 30+ to going to South America and returning to 9.

    The fish had full bellies, im no detective but...

    If i was looking for positives, I didnt panic or fret when building the tank (regardless of how it looks) and had everything laid out in a structured format and everything worked fine.

    Im wondering if i returned to the original layout of it on its side, however i like how it splits the tank with a cave, and its looks obscure, and i like that also.

    Perhaps i just what a beautiful planted tank, and maybe not a huge maintenance lawn of HC to fret when one bit floats.

    I have a bit of hc in there, so touch wood that doesnt happen!!!!

    Regards, and a Merry Christmas!
     
  17. keithgh

    keithgh Moderator Staff Member

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    Johnny

    Have a good think about it after Christmas place it in every position possible take a photo, then ask for opinions on each position.

    If after all that sometimes by cutting bits and pieces off you will get something that is just perfect.

    Keith:):)
     
  18. JohnnyWales

    JohnnyWales New Member

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    Hey Keith.

    Bit of an issue.

    I now have three tanks.

    30l fluval (established)
    65 litre heavily planted (new)
    14 litre desk tank for shrimplets.(new)

    I'm having issues with the water.

    The desk tank has no substrate and a new sponge filter however a seeded sponge from the fluval.

    The two new tanks are still causing issues.

    I cannot tell the difference between 0ppm and 0.25ppm in ammonia,

    And after three weeks, and tens of water changes....

    The nitrites are still between .50 and 1.0ppm.


    Driving me insane.

    Any advice?
     
  19. keithgh

    keithgh Moderator Staff Member

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    Johnny
    Is it possible you are getting the Ammonia from your water supply?

    Exactly how are you cycling those tanks?

    Are you using Stability?

    I hope you are not using a non Bio starter e.g. Prawns etc.

    Keith:):)
     

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