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Discussion in 'Aquascaping Journals' started by Asthaparhim, Aug 28, 2012.
beautiful rocks! Are you sure those are seiryu? Looks more like manten to me.
I notice just one strange thing. Your tank seems to come down even when you had so much CO2 and decent light. What I infer is the high acidity(low pH) might have just burnt up the leaves of your tender HC. Quite a few people who grew and participated on topic might agree that HC is a moderate light seeking plant, so I am not blaming it much.
My 2 ps!
Thanks, they told me it were Seiryu stones.
What would you advice me to do if I start a new scape then to prevent this?
One thing I'm going to do is buying a 2x phillips 14watt lamp to change the ones I've got in my light right now.
I've been searching for a phillips 14watt and this is the one I found on the internet, it has a color temperature of 2700? Isn't that too low?
*In my country I can only get phillips 14watt bulbs.
Sorry, just a sub novice with HC, so can't give sureshot solution.But yes, 6500K will be better than 2700K.
Kelvin rating has little to nothing at all to do with plant health, plants will change to suit what light is given to them.
That the plants were growing fine before is a testament to that.
I honestly think the issue is down to co2, being unstable or possibly too low. What are you dosing again? I'll have a read through the thread again but all my suspicions are on co2 during the transition.
Mon: 1/16 tsp KNO3 & 1/64 tsp KH2PO4
Tue: 1/64 tsp CSM+B
Wed: 1/16 tsp KNO3 & 1/64 tsp KH2PO4
Thu: 1/64 tsp CSM+B
Fri: 1/64 K2SO4
Sat: Cutting and cleaning, 50% water change followed by 1/16 tsp KNO3 & 1/64 tsp KH2PO4
Sun: 1/64 tsp CSM+B
I'm almost sure it is BBA, my CO2 is stable again since 1 week, can't turn it higher now because the otto's will react.
Already bought some new seiryu stones and an eheim pump for some more flow on the bottom of the tank.
I'll do a new start without drystart, hope it works fine got the right amount of co2 now I think (can't turn it higher otherwise the otto's will go crazy).
So you think the lights are OK?
The only reason I could imagine is not stable CO2, but had it stable for about 3 weeks and it did get worse, or
not enough flow on the bottom of the tank, but 440 l p/h on a 25liter tank should be enough, the most 25 liter
tanks that are running great even got a lower flow.
The HC was doing good but the HG since drystart did not do that good and all melted (got brown) till only some green parts were left and I decided to take them out.
Maybe you can advice me another background plant for my 40x25x25 tank for an iwagumi?
How are you dosing those fertilizers? solution or dry powders?
And are you running CO2 24x7?
The 14w CFL you have posted is very low on lumen/watt and 2700k is very harsh yellow, almost like an incandescent bulb, looks quite unpleasing.
The present lighting is fine.
And one more point we are missing here. The amazonia is quite new and still seems to tan your water(the photos have a yellow tinge). It releases adequate amounts of nitrates initially, and unless you dont have nitrate hoggers(fast growing plants) you dont need additional dosing on nitrates, atleast for 1 month(after the tank is flooded) with these plants. This is a nano tank and nitrate build-up will by quite drastic if its not utlilised fully by the plants.
If possible change water 2-3times a week, till you see the tanning reduced to nil.
I see that initially when you flooded the tank, you dint provide stable and high amounts of CO2, which is of utmost importance and neither did you change the water as ADA amzonia is supposed to be changed when substrate is new.
Thanks for your reply.
I'll keep this lighting then.
The first week I did 3 water changes, the second week 2 and the third week also 2 in the fourth week I started doing 1 water change a week, because
a couple of times I did test my water with a sera testkit, there was no no2/ammonia.
I just dose my ferts dry.
When I did flood the tank I did have high co2 (dropchecker yellow) but i didn't keep it stable.
If I remake this tank should I keep al the water with the 5 otto's in an other tank/ bucket and remake
my scape with the same soil and add the water again?
After it's flooded I'll stop dosing then for 1 month and do more water changes 2/3 times a week,
I've also bought an extra eheim pump for some extra flow on the bottom of the tank,
hope it will go allright this time, I'm not that rich to buy new plants every time
I'd point you back to James guide.
A few things though, the drop checker being yellow could be misleading you, a common problem with misting is mist getting into the mouth of the bell giving a false reading, especially as it's an external and in part of the water column that is more enriched than at the substrate where you want to test, a normal diffuser you would move about in the tank to see how the co2 is in all areas of the tank. You do want to dose, even at start up, it's never overly clever to not dose. Keep up the water changes in the first week, every day for 2 weeks may work better, also, it's not worth trusting the test kits, there is no hobby grade kit on the market that is reliable enough to make assertions about algae causes related to ammonia. We'd be talking spikes in the millionth being enough to cause some algaes.
To me it looks like diatoms and BGA.
More flow is good but in all honesty the filter really should be sufficient.
I've got new seiryu stones and plants, unfortunatly no nice big rocks.
- Hemianthus callitrichoides
- Eleocharis parvula
- Riccia fluitans
- Ranunculus inundatus
I just made a hardscape of the rocks I've got a now, some fast pictures with my mobile phone:
Or maybe without the left front stone?
I will place Ranunculus inundatus in the left backcorner behind the stone, followed by some
hairgass and in front of the left backstone some Riccia fluitans.
In the right back corner I place hairgrass.
And ofcourse a carpet of HC.
Help, advice and critique are all welcome!
Planted my tan, had some problems with some HC floating up when flooding and replanting it but I think it's OK right now.
Before flooding, those red rings I use for my riccia fluitans.
I'll try to do a water change every day for the first two weeks so I won't get an algae outbreak again.
I woke up this morning and about 1/4 of all plants where floating, whenever I tried to put one it an other plant float up.
So I did a water change and tried to put as many plants back as possible, I planten the HC pretty deep otherwise it kept floating up, hope this wont cause any trouble.
Same for the Ranunculus inundatus, is it possible to just cut them to the subtrate and let the roots in and replant the tops?
Because every time I try to plant one an other stem floats up (very annoying).
That's not all 4 of my 5 otto's died, don't really know what happened they were in a smaller tank for like 24 hours, same temperature and flow.
Hope that was all bad luck
A fast pictures of my tank.
It was probably an amonia spike which is normal during the set up. It's actually better not to have fish during the first month so you can up CO2 at will.
Not sure about Ranunculus but I suspect that you can trim it back (as nearly all the plants). Floating plants is normal until they develop roots.
This time make sure your CO2 is good and high and keep with the water changes. Don't mess too much with the substrate to avoid amonia spikes. And if you really need to replant and stuff make a waterchange afterwards.
It's looking good!
it looks good. I need to buy more mature HC since I have a dozen cory cats in my tank. my only option is to move them over to my spare 10 gallon until the hc matures or will certainly have the same problem as you. has any more hc floated to the top in the past day since planting them deeper?
I used the same water, aquasoil and filter as in my other tank, transfered the fish in a 12 liter cube for 24 hours. Think they were stressed and they became
Aeromonas? (In dutch we call it vinrot: finrot).
I've transfered the last otto back into the 12 liter cube and giving him a cure of esha2000.
Thanks for your help, I'm doing a water change every day for the first two weeks, hope the plants will root soon!
Since I planted them deeper I haven't got them floating anymore, only sometimes when I do a waterchanges 1 or 2 plants float up.
I would prefer the dry start method if I get the chance again.
Im about to start an iwagumi with HC so this has been an interesting read for me.
Good luck second time around. I prefer your new layout as well.
Hc is a funny old plant. Sometimes these things happen.
It could also be worthwhile spacing the lights so there's a gap between the two that is the same distance from the glass to the light, this will help prevent pooling which can give very high par in a small area making life hard.
Have you tidied up your filter pipework btw? I was thinking about it the other day and it's worth checking there's no obvious kinks.
Thank you! I hope you'll be able to finish your scape in one time without failing like me
I haven't cleaned my filter since the setup of my new aquarium, I will clean it as soon as possible.
I'll also move the lights a bit.
Still doing a water change everytime and dosing my ferts.
Saw a little bit of algae today believe it was green hair algae, I added my eheim airpump 300l p/h in the tank for some more flow and
curculation, if this works it could be possible that I didn't had enough flow in my tank.
An air pump will drive off co2 and make things worse if anything.
My thoughts were that the tubing seemed over long in the previous shots is all and it can easily kink when this happens.
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