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My 220L Planted tank

Discussion in 'General Aquascaping and Planted Tank Discussions' started by Stickling100, Aug 13, 2012.

  1. Stickling100

    Stickling100 Aspiring Aquascaper

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    From what i gather baking is to kill anything that might be on teh wood like boiling it, it may have something to do with drying it out as well.

    I've been told some wood may be poisonous?
     

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  2. Garuf

    Garuf Moderator Staff Member

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    I think it's possibly a myth that some woods are poisonous, I seem to remember reading it was just one of those things passed down but I wouldn't be able to say for definite. I would however steer well clear of anything confierous, leylandii, cypress, pines etc, anything like that that has a very high level or resin.

    I used to boil wood so it sank, I couldn't think of anything that'd be alive that would be an issue in a planted tank to justify it any other way.

    Here's a big long thread not necessarily aimed at scapers but from quickly scanning it it seems to be relatively accurate.
    http://forum.practicalfishkeeping.co.uk/showthread.php?t=53319
     
  3. Stickling100

    Stickling100 Aspiring Aquascaper

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    I've bought 5 small Cryptocoryne crispatula plants as I wanted to create some height at the back, but I'm starting to question thats the best place for them to go. The Aponogeton crispus 'Red' is starting to touch the top of the water now, I'm going to move the Anubias out and plant some other Crypt's i've bought around that section. I know the Microsorum on the wood will fill out considerably in time.
    Any advice on planting the Cryptocoryne crispatula?
     
  4. Garuf

    Garuf Moderator Staff Member

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    hmm. Bloody big plant that, I put some in a friends tank and it got to about 120cm long. You're moving the anubias where? Not to the bin I hope!

    My inclination would be to put all the all the var red behind where the hygro(?) is and then to put the crispatula behind that and all behind the wood where it will dash for the surface.

    No real tips on planting other than push it in deeper than you need then pull it up so the roots are bedded in nicely and every time you trim or do any planting to do a water change after to cut down on ammonia/organics in the water column and the amount of algae spores able to use them.
     
  5. Stickling100

    Stickling100 Aspiring Aquascaper

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    Oh no I wouldn't put my Anubius in the bin!!! I love them but I just can't get it to sit well in the tank, so i'll put it in another tank for now and see if can intergrate it into another scape later.

    On the Tropica website it said that C. crispatula only got to 60cm!
    I know I need to move the A. crispus but do you think the left and right corners will look bare? I really want to put some more branches in so they takeup the empty space.
    I think i'm going to remove the H. Corymbosa I hate the leaf loss, just not sure what to replace it with.
     
  6. Garuf

    Garuf Moderator Staff Member

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    staurogyne repens is nearly identical and a much more robust plant than H. corymbosa. I don't think it would be bare, island style scapes generally have bare(carpeted) patches in the corners, you could try some stems there if you don't like it or crypts like wenditti.

    Plants is plants, they rarely read the books on what size they should be. :p
     
  7. Stickling100

    Stickling100 Aspiring Aquascaper

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  8. Garuf

    Garuf Moderator Staff Member

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    Just needs time to mature and you're well onto a winner. Some trimming to get things into shape will be on the horizon before very long I'm sure!

    If you trim the moss now it'll keep it's shape better and is more likely to "creep". Also, if you turn off all the lights except for the tank lights you'll get better photographs. :)
     
  9. Stickling100

    Stickling100 Aspiring Aquascaper

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    Thanks I'm really happy with it so far for my first attempt!!!!
    I've been high tech for a month or so without complete disaster so fingers crossed!
    C02 is all over the place as I smashed my diffuser, another 3 on the way.
    Yeah the hair grass needs a good trim again but at least it's starting to get thick now.
    Might have a look at the moss 2moro, don't think I've tied it down in places very well though.
     
  10. Shadow

    Shadow Moderator Staff Member

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    nicely done for the first attempt
     
  11. Stickling100

    Stickling100 Aspiring Aquascaper

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    Just in case you were worried I'd thrown it away!!!

    [​IMG]
     
  12. Stickling100

    Stickling100 Aspiring Aquascaper

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    I've planted 3 crypt's 3-4 weeks ago, various small species.
    They have Yellow spots and/or have melting leaves? I also have 3 other crypt's which have quite a bit of Algae on them.

    Co2 seems stable, I'm dosing EI Method. 4 t5 lights on max 10 hours.

    What should I look at tweaking??? I've read the yellow is a lack of iron?
     
  13. Stickling100

    Stickling100 Aspiring Aquascaper

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  14. Stickling100

    Stickling100 Aspiring Aquascaper

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  15. Stickling100

    Stickling100 Aspiring Aquascaper

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    Urgent help needed guys, what am I doing wrong? Suggestions please?
     
  16. Garuf

    Garuf Moderator Staff Member

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    It's an algae, sorry I'm between houses at the minute so I can't offer more definitive advise than it looks like BBA, it's a hard one to dial back sometimes and to check james c's algae guide.

    http://www.theplantedtank.co.uk/algae.htm

    Sorry not to be more helpful as I say, between locations at the minute.
     
  17. Stickling100

    Stickling100 Aspiring Aquascaper

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    It doesn't look like BBA to me, I have increased flow last week so I'll just wait and see. I'm more concerned about the yellow spots could be snail damage, but I'm concerned it's something else. Crypts are usually a hardy plant!
     
  18. Garuf

    Garuf Moderator Staff Member

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    Less likely to be snails than it is low co2/kno3 deficient. Trim the leaves out, they won't recover, increase co2 and dosing, reduce the light both number of tubes (two is plenty) and the duration, 8hours is plenty keep an eye on things.

    Is your lighting and co2 on a timer? Make sure they're "synced".

    It looks like BBA to my eyes but it's kinda hard to tell from the photo.
     
  19. Stickling100

    Stickling100 Aspiring Aquascaper

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    Yeah i've trimmed the leaves before I took the photo.

    I've added a powerhead to increase flow, I've increased the Co2. Not sure how much to increase dosing by? I haven't made up a solution yet so i'm just dosing dry each day, which i've been doing when I come home from work. Maybe I need to be doing this in the morning.

    I have two light units which have two T5's in, the back unit is on from 3pm-11pm, the front is on from 6pm-9pm both on a timer. The Co2 is also on a timer from 2pm-10pm.
     
  20. Garuf

    Garuf Moderator Staff Member

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    So there's a period where 4 tubes are burning over the tank? If so this will be part of the cause because the co2 levels will be fine for the lower light level but are being depleted and are insufficient for twice the amount of light. I know many people used to run high light periods but they are difficult to get right. I make it 9 hours you have lights on for, do you notice if any of the mobile leaved plants close up before the photoperiod is through? They're telling you they think it's bed time and anymore light past this point is going to be going to algae.

    Yes dosing in the morning would be preferable too, even if it's a case of measuring it the night before and then dosing it in the morning so it's no chore when you've woken up.

    In regards to increasing the co2, there's little science to it. As much as it needs be, find the point where fish go lethardic and then work backwards that's your top limit and where you should tend towards. As far as plants are concerned, there's no such thing as too much co2 but there is such thing as too little so it's a matter of finding the medium that all are happy with.
     

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