1. Welcome to AquaScaping World!

    Become a register member to get FULL SITE ACCESS AND BENEFITS.

    Join the ASW community now!

    Dismiss Notice

My 220L Planted tank

Discussion in 'General Aquascaping and Planted Tank Discussions' started by Stickling100, Aug 13, 2012.

  1. Stickling100

    Stickling100 Aspiring Aquascaper

    Joined:
    Aug 8, 2012
    Likes Received:
    19
    Location:
    UK
    Hi Everyone!
    Below is my third tank but my first planted tank, I don't feel right calling it an aquascape as i'm so new to the hoppy! The first time I walked into The Green Machine in Wrexham I new I needed to upgrade and go green!!!
    The first time my boyfriend introduce me to out first tank I didn't have clue! So you can't just put fish into water??? ha ha what an idiot! :oops:
    Since my decision to have a planted tank I have had to take in so much information, I am lucky that my boyfriend has a degree in freshwater biology otherwise i'd be lost, I have drove him insane! :LOL:
    Had a small set back two weeks ago, went on holiday and after setting the timers for the lights I forgot to switch them back on, which resulted in 10days of darkenss!!

    I'm just running on DIY CO2 at the moment, plan to upgrade to pressurized unit soon. I haven't done any tests for a while so not sure what any of the water perameters are currently.

    Any critique welcome. The photo's aren't great only taken on my Iphone.

    sams photos 368.JPG

    The day of planting
    sams photos 401.JPG
    sams photos 454.JPG

    IMG_1203.JPG
     

    Sponsored link:


  2. Garuf

    Garuf Moderator Staff Member

    Joined:
    Mar 22, 2009
    Likes Received:
    360
    Location:
    Leeds, England.
    Ooof the green machine is a great place but so expensive and their advice is often a bit wide of the mark.

    Pressurised co2 is a fantastic investment, don't buy a kit, it's far better to buy the components from about the place, it's an easy way to spend soooo much more than is needed.

    To be totally honest for you, a test kit isn't really needed, dosing fertilizers throws what are already very innacurate tests even further off.I assume you are dosing?

    Lovely scape though, I like the plant choice too.
     
  3. Stickling100

    Stickling100 Aspiring Aquascaper

    Joined:
    Aug 8, 2012
    Likes Received:
    19
    Location:
    UK
    Thank you so much! it looks so much better now I move the M pteropus Thank you for the advice!! It's my little bit of nature in my living room I love it!

    I have visited and bought from The Green Machine a few times, I bought the ADA soil from them and the first lot of plants. They are very expensive I agree, I recently started buying plants from the internet and was happily surprised.
    I've had ok results with my DIY system so will continue untill I have some spare cash and have done some more research, which I have already done A LOT of and I am only grasping tha basics! :confused:
    As far as Fertilizers I am quite in the dark!! I have used Fertilizers in my onther tanks and had some good results but that was just blind luck. I have no idea what to use, when,why or if at all at this early stage?? The ones I have used in the past have been liquid over the counter bottles or tablets, which are quite expensive. I have been looking at dosing so any advise would be great?

    I assume you say I don't personally need to test due to the set up and plants I currently have?? My Boyfreind always says he's never bother with a mature set up but thats more fish related.
    My tap water has high Phosphate according to the test kit I bought, which I bought when all sorts of algee starting apearing like never before. I added Phosphate removing media and floating plants which seems to have done the trick to be honest.

    Do you know what the Purple plant is called? It started to flower but I was concerned it was putting too much energy into the flowers and I don't have an open tope so I removed them, not sure if that was the right thing to do. They aren't doing so well after being moved either.

    Thanks again, sorry for all the questions!
     
  4. Garuf

    Garuf Moderator Staff Member

    Joined:
    Mar 22, 2009
    Likes Received:
    360
    Location:
    Leeds, England.
    TGM are good, you just have to remember that a lot of what they say is bunkum because they're trying to sell high end products with high end costs and they want to sell the products they stock when there are better out there for less.

    Okay well it's going to be a huge learning curve from ecology to dosing, co2 injection and the like because it's much more akin to horticulture and max gain than it is any natural system in particular.

    Well the reason I say about dosing is two fold, firstly hobby grade kits are very very inaccurate and secondly, what they tell us often we have absolutely no control over nor would we wish to, especially since if you're dosing then the test kit won't really tell you anything you don't already know.This isn't personally this is as a general rule for this aspect of the hobby.

    Here's the most important thing you'll learn about our systems, algaes are never caused by an excess, always a deficiency be it ferts or co2. If you're seeing algaes first things first are to increase the co2. That is, providing you're dosing.

    Fertilizing is as important as adding co2, especially with higher levels of light, no ferts, the plants go deficient and algaes appear. If you want to avoid off the shelf then estimative index or pmdd are good methods and work out extremely cheaply, ei is often the least troublesome because you're very unlikely to run out of ferts allowing you to concentrate on getting good co2 levels and distribution. We generally don't consider tap levels of "nutrients" since it fluctuates, is unstable and uncontrollable and legal limits are below what we aim for generally speaking in a system.

    The reasons your algae went away (if it has) when you added floaters is because you lowered the amount of light and therefore the amount of demand on ferts (and co2) from the plants, really, you should never add phosphate removers, they don't benefit our systems at all because they're removing a vital element for the health of our tanks. Phosphates never ever are responsible for algae. We add ferts because our lights drive demand and since our tanks our closed systems we have to add addition nutrients because there isn't enough coming from just the water we add into the tank alone, therefore we add enough daily to stop peaks and troughs and allowing the plants to become deficient and therefore cause algae, ferts however are less important than co2 which is vitally important to our systems.

    I wouldn't worry over the flower, a closed top is likely to be more beneficial due to increased humidity so it won't dry out. It's important to remember that plants flower because they can, not because conditions are perfect, this is something that often throws people.

    Being moved will initially knock back any plant, the effect will be even more so if there is unsuficient ferts and most importantly co2 in the system to aid recovery.

    The plant I think is Aponogeton Crispus red, but I could be wrong.

    Here's a good link regarding dosing giving a good overview. I can recommend fluid sensor for buying the ferts if you choose to go this route, TMC+ is the best off the shelf dosing in my opinion. The site also has the most trustworthy algae advise on the internet all in one place.
    http://www.theplantedtank.co.uk/EI.htm

    I think that's everything. If I've missed anything don't hesitate to ask.

    The key things to take from it all is the co2 is by far and away the most important thing along with flow and then ferts and least importantly light.
     
  5. Stickling100

    Stickling100 Aspiring Aquascaper

    Joined:
    Aug 8, 2012
    Likes Received:
    19
    Location:
    UK
    Right ok I read the article and anything else I coud get my hands on, I understood a lot more than I thought I would!

    I'm going to go with the EI method I like the fact that I know what I putting into my tank, and it is really cost effective. I'm still a little worried i'll be adding to much Phosphate with the tap water reading coming out so high though? I tested last night and it was the darkest colour on the chart which was stating 3.0
     
  6. Garuf

    Garuf Moderator Staff Member

    Joined:
    Mar 22, 2009
    Likes Received:
    360
    Location:
    Leeds, England.
    I honestly wouldn't stress it, I've dosed 3 times EI in the past and still had rainbow fish fry coming out my ears. Phosphate is in no way responsible for algae. I also wouldn't stress it since hobby grade test kits are so very inaccurate and don't give a true reading at all. The legal limit allowed in drinking water is less than what we add in EI so it wouldn't even be akin to dosing twice the phosphate levels of ei.
     
  7. Stickling100

    Stickling100 Aspiring Aquascaper

    Joined:
    Aug 8, 2012
    Likes Received:
    19
    Location:
    UK
    Ok Brilliant thats put my mind at rest!
     
  8. Stickling100

    Stickling100 Aspiring Aquascaper

    Joined:
    Aug 8, 2012
    Likes Received:
    19
    Location:
    UK
    Oh I do have another question, do you think I will need anything other than-Potassium Nitrate, Monopotassium Phosphate & TNC Trace elements?
     
  9. Garuf

    Garuf Moderator Staff Member

    Joined:
    Mar 22, 2009
    Likes Received:
    360
    Location:
    Leeds, England.
    The thing to watch for now would really be co2 and potentially turnover. How much light is burning over the tank? It might be wise to allow the floaters to grow thick for a while if you're running two or more t5 lights this will keep co2 demand low till a FE rig or similar is sourced, diy co2 is only really suitable for low light tanks as a supplement because it's just so unstable and produces low levels of co2 and instability and low co2 are sure to be algae triggers.
     
  10. Garuf

    Garuf Moderator Staff Member

    Joined:
    Mar 22, 2009
    Likes Received:
    360
    Location:
    Leeds, England.
    Mgso4, kh2po4 and kno3+ trace
    I use the above recipe myself since I often got magnesium deficiencies when I moved from Stoke to Leeds, James is based in london which has lots of magnesium in it's water so he found it wasn't needed. I did, plus, a bag of Mgso4 is cheap.

    Quote lifted from here:http://www.ukaps.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=34&t=1211
     
  11. Stickling100

    Stickling100 Aspiring Aquascaper

    Joined:
    Aug 8, 2012
    Likes Received:
    19
    Location:
    UK
    Yeah I have 4 lights in the tank at the moment I could always remove two on each unit to reduce the light.
     
  12. Garuf

    Garuf Moderator Staff Member

    Joined:
    Mar 22, 2009
    Likes Received:
    360
    Location:
    Leeds, England.
    I personally would only run the two and allow for a thick cover of floaters to keep co2 demand low till a proper system is in place other wise it could turn into an algae massacre very quickly with the levels of par coming from 4 tubes!
     
  13. Stickling100

    Stickling100 Aspiring Aquascaper

    Joined:
    Aug 8, 2012
    Likes Received:
    19
    Location:
    UK
    Yes I suspect I've been quite lucky so far!! better not push my luck! ;)
     
  14. Stickling100

    Stickling100 Aspiring Aquascaper

    Joined:
    Aug 8, 2012
    Likes Received:
    19
    Location:
    UK
    So my Chemicals arrived yestreday, I have measuring soons already.

    Q-do I just Mix the dry chemicals into water, and then poor them into my aquarium?
     
  15. Garuf

    Garuf Moderator Staff Member

    Joined:
    Mar 22, 2009
    Likes Received:
    360
    Location:
    Leeds, England.
    You can either dose them dry if the smallest spoon you have is small enough, add the spoons to some water then add to the tank or you can make a mix with a months worth of ferts in and a multiple of the amount of ferts you want to dose each time. Ie, if you want to each dose to be 50ml then it's 50ml x the amount of days your mix is for.

    Don't mix the trace though, if making a mix this should be kept separate in a separate bottle as it will react with the other ferts rendering it useless.
     
  16. Stickling100

    Stickling100 Aspiring Aquascaper

    Joined:
    Aug 8, 2012
    Likes Received:
    19
    Location:
    UK
    Ok brilliant I was worried I was missing something! I'ts a very straight forward method don't know what I was worried about.

    I have 1/2 tsp & 1/8 tsp So for now I'll just mix each day, maybe next week I'll get some suitable containers and make a batch up.

    Would be great to have Newbie section on here, I'm sure you've been asked these questions over and over.
     
  17. Garuf

    Garuf Moderator Staff Member

    Joined:
    Mar 22, 2009
    Likes Received:
    360
    Location:
    Leeds, England.
    Cheapest place for bottles is Tesco's value water, 9p per 2l bottle.
     
  18. Garuf

    Garuf Moderator Staff Member

    Joined:
    Mar 22, 2009
    Likes Received:
    360
    Location:
    Leeds, England.
    Regarding the Newbie thing, you'd be surprised, most people come here after they've already learnt the ropes and are looking for advise on how to improve their scapes or to show case their works.

    I was working on a article for beginners but my rambling style got poor feedback so it's been back burnered while I think on how best to provide good information and have it easily digestible to a newb without overwhelming and at the same time trying to dispel some of the more common myths. There was talk of a beginners section but we just never got round to it.
     
  19. Stickling100

    Stickling100 Aspiring Aquascaper

    Joined:
    Aug 8, 2012
    Likes Received:
    19
    Location:
    UK
    Well I really do think it would be beneficial to soooo many of us newbies out there.
    The difficulty I'm finding is a lot of what I read I don't understand as i'm starting from very little knowledge at all, I'm not "green fingered" can't even keep house plants alive! Lots of what I do read my partner has to explain it in a way I understand.

    When I do my research and get my head around whats being said I think, "Oh thats not that difficult" ha ha
    The benefit I had from a starting point was I understand quite a lot about fish, so the fish keeping aspect I didn't have to be concered with and I could just get on with researching other aspects of planted aquariums.

    Any info you want to pass my way is greatfully received! Myth bust away. he he

    I've been making some plan's for my nano tank and I have some really nice ideas, i've found some nice small branches of wood in my in-laws garden which is huge. They have over the years cut down numerous trees which are in a pile for the burner. The branches are all dried out and they can identify which trees they have came from by looking. They grow a lots of veg and have done for 35 years they have never used pesticides during this time. I know I need to use hardwood for aquarium use. I've read a few article on how to treat wood for aquarium use but the types you can and can't use are a little vague. I would really like to use these branhces in my new scape, Any ideas?

    I was hoping to get some more critique from members on here, maybe whenIi start posting about my new challenge people will join in??:confused:
     
  20. Garuf

    Garuf Moderator Staff Member

    Joined:
    Mar 22, 2009
    Likes Received:
    360
    Location:
    Leeds, England.
    It's quiet season at the minute being summer and two big competitions running at the minute, posting always goes down in the summer because people remember outside is a thing, I'm sure people will chime in along the way.

    With regards to the wood you're right hard woods work well, I've used apple and heather in the past and both have worked well with no special treatment other than flaking of the bark. In the past I've read people recommending baking it but I don't really know why it works or if it works at all I assume it's just down to drying the wood out of any natural moisture. Provided the wood has nothing green and soft that will rot I imagine any would work. I'll have a search about the place and see what I can see. It tends to be that if wood is already dead before collecting and it's not rotten it's fine.
     

Share This Page

Sponsored link: