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Little algae in my tank

Discussion in 'Algae' started by Brian, Mar 4, 2008.

  1. Brian

    Brian New Member

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    Hello I have a little Cyano bacteria in my tank and brush algae, hair algae and green algae(like short hair in leaves) but only a little on some of y plants. it was for take out 3 Echinodorus Amazonicus and a few other plants? when I take out the echinos all the rrots move the substrate an a cloud of dirt comes out, the filter clean it in 20 min. But that dirt in the filter is causing algae problems? Im clean te substrate hardly with simphoning
     
  2. Pat7676

    Pat7676 New Member

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    How much lighting do you have? Do you have CO2? Have you planted your tank medium to heavy planted?
     
  3. Brian

    Brian New Member

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    Was heavy planted but now is med planted because I take out echinos and oter plants. yes I have yeast CO2 with 2-3 bubles per second. watts. mmm 120 watts for 29 g tank
     
  4. John N.

    John N. Administrator Staff Member

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    110 watts over 29 gallons = Large potential for algae issues like Hair algae.

    This high wattage coupled with the fact that the disturbed substrate introduced a large amount of nutrients in the water column that would normally get consumed by a heavy plant biomass gave way to an all you can eat buffet for algae.

    I would suggest cleaning out your filter, doing a large waterchange, and remove whatever algae you can. Cut down the lights to one bulb until things settle back down.

    -John N.
     
  5. Pat7676

    Pat7676 New Member

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    I used to run that much lighting on my tank and i had algae issues too and i have the same size tank as you do. I cut my lighting in half and for about 2 hours i have both light bulbs on this has made the algae issues much better.
     
  6. Chadly

    Chadly New Member

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    So you cut down the time by 2 hours for BOTH lights? Or do you only have full light intesity for two hours?

    Say you have a 10-12 hour light cycle. I've been wondering if haveing partial light intensity for 1/3 then full for 1/3 then back to partial for the final 1/3 would help w/ algea issues for high light also.
     
  7. Pat7676

    Pat7676 New Member

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    My light is a 130 Watts Light. Each bulb gives me 65 watts of power.
    My schedule:

    11:00 AM Lights on 65 Watts run only one bulb.
    4:00 PM Other Bulb comes on giving me 130 Watts.
    6:00 PM One bulb turns off giving me 65 watts again.
    9:00 PM Lights off.
     
  8. Brian

    Brian New Member

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    but, I put that wattage to acomplish 1 watt per liter (is like 4w per galon) rule to put all plants I like, like red plants.

    What is the apropiate watt to 29G long (the wal-mart 29g tank), my lights is 7 month old and are fluorecen espiral and I have 2 20 watt tubes one red and one blue, the mayor problem is the cyanobacteria.

    Nitrates: 10 mg/l
    Phosphate: .5 mg/l
    Ph: 6.6
     
  9. Brian

    Brian New Member

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    12 hours photoperiod, 10am- 10pm, full light.
     
  10. Pat7676

    Pat7676 New Member

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    Then i bet your problem is your CO2 if you need that much light you need to go with a pressurized system to get more of a steady flow. I also had problems with my DIY CO2 system and i had 2 2 liter bottles running on my tank. Now i have a CO2 and i am much more happy.
     
  11. kakkoii

    kakkoii New Member

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    yeah go pressurized.
     
  12. Hoppy

    Hoppy New Member

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    I'm troubled by you having one red and one blue bulb. Is the blue bulb an actinic bulb? If so, that bulb isn't helping the plants much if any. But, it might be helping algae to grow. I think you need to find some 5500K to 10,000K color temperature bulbs and use those in that fixture. Then, I would only use one bulb until the plants grow a lot to increase the total plant mass in the tank.

    To stop algae from getting a foothold in the tank you need to keep the concentration of CO2 in the water the same every day, day after day, and for that much light a 30 ppm concentration would work best. A cheap drop checker would let you determine the concentration with reasonable accuracy.
     
  13. tinkerman

    tinkerman New Member

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    First did I read that correctly you have 2x 20 watt bulb to total 120 watts if this is so your running odno x4. which would give your bulbs a life of like 3 mo from what I've read on odno. The red and blue bulbs i can see as normal flourecents as I have the same combo on a 10 gal. Its always a good idea to do a 50% water change after a major prunning or scape. I did a 29 gal with diy co2 for a yr and it was alot of work. I used homemade needle valves on my diy set up. lighting for 9 1/2-10 hr photo period. I had spurts with bba and gsa all was pretty good if I stayed on top of things. As for red plants its not so much the light as it is limiting nitrate and adding extra phosphates that bring the reds out you can also starve them of nitrates for a week too to bring reds out. With that much light I found it best to do EI daily dosing as it seemed that ferts would bottom out before I dosed again. I ran an atinic on this tank also and don't see why people say they premote algea, I don't think they are any benifit to plant growth though. I agree with the reduction in lighting till the algea dies back. The drop checker is a good idea too. Thats my expereince with my 29 gal that is similar to what you have.
     
  14. Brian

    Brian New Member

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    wait, wait, the bulbs are, 2 fluorecents tubes one blue and one blue (10,000K) of 20 w each and 3 fluorecent spirals of 27W. Almost all my plants are bubbling. I have 2 Co2 difusor. the cyano is still growing and filamentous algae and red brush algae. tomorrow I will change water with RO water and clean the 2 filter. wath you think? it is okay? I buy an 2 liter excel to kill algae but is in the way from USA to Puerto Rico.

    I have a new Co2 Milwaukke regulator im only need the gas tank and here sell it in $220 it very expensive.
     
  15. Hoppy

    Hoppy New Member

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    The brush algae, whether red or black, usually indicates too much light with too little CO2, in my opinion. The cyanobacteria usually indicates too much light with too little nitrate, in my opinion. You do have a lot of light for a 29 gallon tank, even with the spiral fluorescent bulbs not being as effective as the linear tube type bulbs. It looks like you are on the right track by working towards a pressurized CO2 system. Until you get that set up you could reduce the amount of light a little and reduce the number of hours it is on. Excel will be effective against the brush algae, but not the cyanobacteria.
     

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