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ICH

Discussion in 'Fish' started by David B. Diehl, Jan 27, 2017.

  1. David B. Diehl

    David B. Diehl Aspiring Aquascaper

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    How do you get rid of and control ich without killing the plants? Only thing new in tank for last 2 months was Lava rock which I boiled first. Was recommended Malachite Green but found it will kill plants.
     

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  2. John Whatmough

    John Whatmough Aspiring Aquascaper

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    Hi David ,depends on availability but I use something like esHa Exit. It should have minimal effect on plants.Good thing about esHa unlike other similar products you can use in combination as a example it can be used in combination with esHa 2000 to prevent secondary or treat infections,check the details of the product on Google. Water change and temperature raising will help while you get to your local aquarium shop
     
  3. keithgh

    keithgh Moderator Staff Member

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    David

    I compiled this many years ago.

    Here is a lot of very useful information about Ich I strongly suggest you copy and print this out for future reference.

    If you have any more questions please ask.



    WHITE SPOT ICH

    White spot Parasite, Ichthyophthirius multifiliis

    This disease is easy to recognise, as the skin of the infected fish becomes covered with white spots, each the size of a pinhead. Each spot represents the site of one, or sometimes two, parasites. All parts of the body gills, may be attacked.

    The causative agent is named Ichthyophthirius multifiliis. It is a spherical and large by protozoan standards, measuring up to 1mm in diameter. Short, hair-like processes known as cilia are spread densely over the surface. A horseshoe-shape nucleus is also present which is clearly visible under the microscope.

    By the means of the cilia the parasite rotates vigorously and burrows into the surface layer (epidermis) of its host. It feeds on skin cells and surface debris. The burrowing action causes a local irritation and the epidermis grows across the parasite to enclose it, thus forming a “White Spot”


    Reproduction occurs away from the host. After maturing in the skin, which takes a few days to three weeks, depending on the temperature, the parasite bores out, swims away and comes to rest on a submerged object such as a stone, or plant. Here it forms a jelly-like cyst within which a series of rapid cell divisions take place. In a few hours, several hundred daughter cells or swarmers are produced, which break out of the cyst to find a new host. Alighting on the skin, they burrow in to recommence the life cycle. If they fail to find a host within three to four days, they perish.


    Symptoms

    If the protozoan is introduced into a tank containing healthy fish, little harm may occur, other than a fleeting infection with a few parasites. If however, the fishes are already weakened for some other reason, e.g. lack of oxygen, the parasite will quickly cover the whole body surface, causing irritation and opening up wounds for secondary infections. The host mobility may become affected. In severe cases, death may result.


    Prevention

    If white-spot appears in an otherwise healthy tank, the parasite “must” have been introduced either as an adult on a newly acquired fish or as the cyst form on, for example new stones, a plant or even added water. The only certain method of prevention, is to quarantine all new stock, including stones, plants etc; preferably in water at a temperature of 77F. Allow one week’s quarantine.


    Treatments

    There are too many treatments today to recommend any specific one. Many can be bought easily at aquarium outlets.



    Several very interesting points to think about.


    Very easy to recognise.

    Its reproduction cycle.

    No host they will die.

    If introduced into a healthy tank little harm may occur.

    Pay attention to all tank details.

    Weakened fish and lack of oxygen can/may and will cause severe deaths. All this is usually caused by poor tank maintenance and/or incorrect and faulty equipment.

    Prevention is the best cure

    A Parasite “must” be introduced into the tank.


    Treating the Tank

    You might not see any WS after a week BUT it has not all gone and by this I mean the treatment must be continued for at least a total of 3-4 weeks. This might sound a long time but it will be worth it.


    I would still carry out your weekly water changes and when you have completed the tank treatment a 50% of treated water change would help for the next two changes.


    Then you can replace or add a carbon filter for at least 2 weeks and toss it out completely.


    I have had WS with my CLs and they as well as all fish worth the extra time and effort in removing the Ich.


    Finally take all the precautions and try not to get it again


    This information was collected from Fresh Water Tropical Fish

    Compiled by Keith


    ********************************************************************************************************************

    TREATING A TANK and Scaleless fish


    Clown Loaches and other scaleless fish require a special White Spot cure. I have seen it said that this is not so just use any WS cure at half strength and that will do. That is totally wrong even at that strength it will become dangerous.


    Only use the "CORRECT" WS cure and only use it at the correct dosage as per instruction on the bottle. Also check the UBD "Expire Date" to be on the safe side.


    Melafix can be used in conjunction with the WS cure it will not cure it at all but it will reduce the stress on the fish.


    Now for the treatment.

    Only used the prescribed amount and times recommended.

    Remove any carbon filters if you are using them.

    Add extra air this is beneficial to the tank as well.

    Bump up the temp slowly. By doing this it speeds up the growth rate of the Ich and this kills it quicker.

    Turn of the lights if you have a fully planted tank this will not hurt for a few days at all.

    Reduce the feeding by 50% they won’t feel like eating any way and you could easily have other problem with the uneaten food. I would feed them with small amounts of "Frozen Blood Worms" at least 3 time a week this will keep their strength up remember a healthy fish will survive the Ich problem a lot easier.


    Treating the Tank

    You might not see any WS after a week BUT it has not all gone and by this I mean the treatment must be continued for at least a total of 3-4 weeks. This might sound a long time but it will be worth it.


    I would still carry out your weekly water changes and when you have completed the tank treatment a 50% of treated water change would help for the next two changes.


    Then you can replace or add a carbon filter for at least 2 weeks and toss it out completely.


    I have had WS with my CLs and they as well as all fish worth the extra time and effort in removing the Ich.

    Keith:cat::cat:
     
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  4. David B. Diehl

    David B. Diehl Aspiring Aquascaper

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    I think that is what a fish supplier recommended as far as treatment. Thanks
     
  5. keithgh

    keithgh Moderator Staff Member

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    David

    My Ich problems were in the colder months when it was in the local water supply. I was advised by an importer to take my water from my HWS (we had an instantaneous unit) I would collect the hot water in water containers and let it sit for a week I never saw Ich again. If the hot water did not kill it the storage did as they had no host to live off.

    Keith:cat::cat:
     
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  6. David B. Diehl

    David B. Diehl Aspiring Aquascaper

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    Will give it a try since it is winter here now.
     
  7. keithgh

    keithgh Moderator Staff Member

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    David

    That will only prevent it coming in via your water. I did get a bad case but that was caused by a batch of Cardinals I bought locally not my normal supplier.

    Keith:cat::cat:
     
  8. David B. Diehl

    David B. Diehl Aspiring Aquascaper

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    The only thing I added was rock.
     
  9. keithgh

    keithgh Moderator Staff Member

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    David that sounds very unusual unless it was taken out of a contaminated tank then into your tank practically immediately.

    Keith:cat::cat:
     
  10. David B. Diehl

    David B. Diehl Aspiring Aquascaper

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    The new lava rock that I boiled. I stirred up quite a bit of gravel when I put them in the tank.
     
  11. keithgh

    keithgh Moderator Staff Member

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    David

    The Ich would have to be in the gravel first and that meant already in your tank.

    If you had not added any plants or fish or any thing from an infected tank within the last 7-10 days it looks like it could have come in via you water supply.

    Keith:cat::cat:
     
  12. David B. Diehl

    David B. Diehl Aspiring Aquascaper

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    Happened right after a water change without the RO unit.
     
  13. keithgh

    keithgh Moderator Staff Member

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    David that looks like where it came from.

    Keith:cat::cat:
     
  14. ShadowMac

    ShadowMac Moderator Staff Member

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    I've used the heat treatment in the past with great success. Many medications are dangerous to invertebrates, so I don't use them.

    86 F for two weeks. Prevents the parasite from completing its life cycle.
     
  15. David B. Diehl

    David B. Diehl Aspiring Aquascaper

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    Gradually or raise in one change? Temp now is 72 all livebearers swordtails.
     
  16. ShadowMac

    ShadowMac Moderator Staff Member

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    I set the heater and let it increase. Took some time to get to temp. Watched fish for stress. I've found the temp. less stressful than meds. I generally keep SA fish, so they may be more adaptable to the temp increase.

    Another option if you have shrimp is to remove the fish to a hospital tank for 4 weeks and treat the fish in the hospital tank. After 4 weeks without a host in the display tank the parasite will die unable to complete its life cycle.
     
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  17. David B. Diehl

    David B. Diehl Aspiring Aquascaper

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    Too many fish to remove, some just born a week ago. and don't have another tank big enough. No shrimp, just snails. Will raise heat in the 55 gal tank. Glad I only used RO water in 75 gal.
    Ant thoughts on fertilizer, found one Osmocote tabs. Are they any good?
     
  18. ShadowMac

    ShadowMac Moderator Staff Member

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    some can have ammonium nitrate, so they can cause an ammonia spike. You have to use sparingly, but they are commonly used as root tabs. One easy way to get them into the substrate is to put some in an ice cube tray with water and then freeze. You can then plug the ice cube down into the substrate in order to get the osmocote down there. I think people use Osmocote plus. I cannot recall the difference.
     
  19. flchamp89

    flchamp89 New Member

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    Osmocote plus is easier to work with. You can get a big bag of empty capsules online.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
     
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  20. David B. Diehl

    David B. Diehl Aspiring Aquascaper

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    The raise in temp. won't stress the plants will it?
     

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