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Help me with my 1st aquascaping

Discussion in 'General Aquascaping and Planted Tank Discussions' started by ady, Mar 11, 2016.

  1. keithgh

    keithgh Moderator Staff Member

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    Ady
    One good tree positioned correctly might give you a better perspective of distance.

    Keith:cat::cat:
     
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  2. ady

    ady New Member

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    Hi J Art
    You are absolutely right there. I have to move them further away besides there are a lot of empty space between rocks for them.
    As to fish, maybe some shrimps maybe a very small group of tetras. The emphasis is obviously on the plants i don't want to compromise their healthy with organic material of fishes.

    thank you
     
    Last edited: Mar 24, 2016
  3. ady

    ady New Member

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    Thank you ShadowMac

    I have some little trees.I'll upload some pics of them.
    My concerns are :
    Air humidity
    I read that you should have good humidity near to 100% and i also read that you have to make some holes on the plastics for air ventilation, so these statements is confusing me.
    Ground elevation
    Too many slopes in my aquarium make the higher ground dry faster but i can solve this with misting the soil and that will make the lower ground get submersed.
    Over-saturation
    It's hard to not over-saturated the lower ground.


    So far i have opened the top during 30 mn for air exchange, misting the plants 2x a day mainly because of the higher ground getting dry faster.
     
    Last edited: Mar 24, 2016
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  4. ady

    ady New Member

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    Guys i have i few questions for you

    Should i open a few permanent holes on the top for air circulation?

    Should i turn my CO2 bottle on to add more carbon dioxide for plants or the have enough natural surround co2?

    What about photo-period? i read about 12-14 hours daily
     
  5. ady

    ady New Member

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    Hi Keith
    On the left or maybe on the right side given the fact it has a lot of open space?
     
  6. ShadowMac

    ShadowMac Moderator Staff Member

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    Ady,

    I'm currently doing a DSM to hold up some slopes when I fill. All of those things you outlined are challenges to DSM, but not as difficult as you would think.

    1) Air humidity near 100% is good. As long as you can see moisture on the glass from humidity you are in good shape. I cut a couple holes for the legs of the light to fit in and this offers enough ventilation. Lifting it to mist is enough time to exchange the air. It could easily go days if not weeks without having the cover lifted. There is plenty of CO2 in the air.

    2) The drying out should have more to do with not achieving your humidity levels than the slope height. Mine stays moist for days without misting. I try to mist once a day.

    3) If you are getting pooling, then you are either misting too much or the soil had a lot of water to start. Remember, these plants adapted to grow in water when marginal flooding occurs. They prefer to be out of water despite being able to grow under water. Pooling won't be good, so make sure you avoid that. You can reduce your misting if you get pooling. If it is pooling in the sand where there are no plants that is fine. You just don't want the plants sitting in pools of water.

    The 30 min for air circulation is not needed. A few minutes while you mist is plenty. Maintaining humidity is the most crucial part.
     
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  7. ady

    ady New Member

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    That is great to hear
    IMG_20160324_155449.jpg
     
  8. ady

    ady New Member

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    IMG_20160324_155549.jpg IMG_20160324_155549.jpg
     
  9. ShadowMac

    ShadowMac Moderator Staff Member

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    You have plenty of water in there. I would drain some of the water so that it does not come up to the substrate. It can act as a reservoir for the moisture in the air. Your DSM is much wetter than mine and I am not having problems. In general I think people get into trouble when things are too wet.
     
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  10. ady

    ady New Member

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    I am going to lower the water enough to make the pathway as reservoir for the moisture and the left/right side "dry".
    I also did these holes as you said for legs of light for better penetration and air ventilation. IMG_20160324_163243.jpg
     
  11. J Art

    J Art Aspiring Aquascaper

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  12. ShadowMac

    ShadowMac Moderator Staff Member

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    after adding the ventilation holes, make sure the glass remains moist. That is the best indicator your humidity is high enough. If the glass starts to dry out then you need less ventilation.
     
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  13. ady

    ady New Member

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    OK. I'll keep an eye on it . If i find a cheap hygrometer i'll buy it .
     
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  14. ady

    ady New Member

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    Thank you J.
    I read this article this morning and it is 5 ***** and very enlightening. But my main concern is the very steep hills i have.
     
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  15. keithgh

    keithgh Moderator Staff Member

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    Ady

    The left side is looking very good its the right side I was referring to.

    Keith:cat::cat:
     
  16. ady

    ady New Member

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    Hi Keith!
    Are you doing sir?
    Ah ok. But the right side with a group of small trees might work.
    For now, finger crossed about DSM , hoping it will work and trees _(2nd stage)
     
    Last edited: Mar 24, 2016
  17. keithgh

    keithgh Moderator Staff Member

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    ady

    If you made them young tress with different heights and sizes it would then give you another dimension to your Aquascape.

    Keith:cat::cat:
     

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