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Hello Noob over here!!

Discussion in 'Beginner's Corner' started by jordimex, Jun 8, 2017.

  1. jordimex

    jordimex New Member

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    Hello my name is Jorge, actually i am a week old in this hobby and fish keeping all together
    For my tank im not looking to emmulate any particular style im just going freestyle hope it works
    I have a 65 gal tank, with a aquatop CF400-UV i have no idea what the flow rate is (all i know is that the guy at the fish store said it was sufficient), also have a fluval T5 pro for fresh water plants currently on for 8 hours a day, i don't use CO2, have a QP-5 pump and as of the moment I haven't changed the water but plan on doing it every week, started out 3 days ago with this tank with the Fritz-Zyme Turbostart 700 and today my ammonia and nitrates levels where in the green for new fish, got 2 I believe koi angelfish and a fire eel but have noticed that the angel fish are always tucked in a corner away from the flow i don't know how to set it slow enough for them to be comfortably swimming in the tank. Also need advice on how to create a carpet style for the substrate part of the tank.
    Also have a small 10 gal tank with 2 bala sharks, 1 gold dojo loach, two tetras and a rainbow shark; as of equipment for this tank im not sure what kind of lights it has but i have a small flow filter and so far all is good.


    Hope we can start this thread going with all of your advice
    thank you and sorry for the bad english
    IMG_5316 2.JPG
    IMG_5400.JPG IMG_5401.JPG
     
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  2. Culprit3

    Culprit3 Aspiring Aquascaper

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    Please remove the Bala sharks They can grow rather large 6-7ins in a 5ft tank in the wild they can grow rather large


    You really need to sort out your parameters. Do you know what a nitrogen cycle is? You need to be doing 50% water changes every day on any tank where ammonia and nitrites show anything at all. You should have ZERO nitrites or ammonia.

    The fire eel gets two feet long and needs a minimum tank size of 125 gallons, and hes predatory so he will eat any other fish. So you need to rehome him.

    For the 10 gallon. REHOME THE BALA SHARKS! they need a 5 foot tank at least. What type of tetras is it? THey need to be kept in at least groups of 6 and really shouldn't be in a 10 gallon. They need a 20 gallon long at least. The gold dojo loach needs at least 50 gallons so REHOME HIM. The rainbow shark needs a minimum of 50 gallons so rehome him. To recap, rehome the bala sharks, the dojo loach, the fire eel, and the rainbow shark. Then we can work to get you a good stocking.

    Also, get some tetra safestart + and put it in the tank otherwise the fire eel and angelfish will die.

    Once you get this done, we can work with you to get a very enjoyable stocking, and then help you aquascape.
     
    ShadowMac and jordimex like this.
  3. jordimex

    jordimex New Member

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    The parameters on both tanks for ammonia and nitrites is zero for both tanks, on the ten gallon i have been doing the water change every other day, and actually planning on changing the bala sharks, the dojo leach and the rainbow shark to my bigger 65 gal tank and try to do a iwugami style tank for the tetras as well as getting more, as for the fire eel I talked to the guy at the fish store and plan on selling it back when he gets to big.

    Also i already added
    API® Quick Start Aquarium Cycling Water Conditioner
    and FritzZyme TurboStart 700 Concentrated Live Nitrifying Bacteria
    here is the web site http://www.fritzzyme.com/index.php?p=fritzzyme-turbostart
     
    Last edited: Jun 8, 2017
  4. keithgh

    keithgh Moderator Staff Member

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    jordimex

    Welcome to ASW
    I have added your tank photos instead of the links.
    I suggest you use Photobucket to store and post your photos it's free and very easy to use.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Where do I start it looks very much like you have received a lot of incorrect information about starting an Aquarium

    First the tank will not be cycled and by adding fish during the cycle will slowly poison and kill them, solution return all fish and get a credit immediately.

    I will only recommend two products to Cycle a tank one is difficult to obtain the easiest to use is Seachem Stability. http://www.seachem.com/stability.php
    There are others that all share the same name it's called "It's as good as" it's usually cheaper and sold by many LFS/Pet stores.

    Do you understand the Cycling process fully if not please say so and I will post the information for you.

    Stocking you certainly have received the wrong information, the WWW is full of it.
    Here is one of the best to check your inhabitants you have now and what you would like to buy in the future.
    http://www.aqadvisor.com/
    Please post all the results.

    Aquascaping
    It is considered the hardest Aquascape to do correctly especially for any beginners.
    Here is the ASW link to do your research on Iwagumi.
    http://www.aquascapingworld.com/threads/guide-to-iwagumi-with-links.11053/

    Keith:cat::cat:
     
  5. jordimex

    jordimex New Member

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    To be honest not to familiar with the cycling process all that i know is that the so called experts at fish stores said i was good to add the 3 fish i added after putting the turbostart in, also i have the stability product already in hand should i add any to the water? i forgot to say that the water i got for my tank since i can't use my faucet water was RO treated mixed with about 30% cichlid water or cycled water the guy at the fish store didn't know what i meant but thats was the guy that delivered me the water said, also turbostart states that it helps for immediate addition of fish (i guess it all a lie) i don't think the guys would accept the fish back for a credit is there any other recommendations? by the way i got the water tested today and said it had no ammonia or nitrites
     
  6. keithgh

    keithgh Moderator Staff Member

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    Another word is "Newcomer" & "Sales pitch" I have been involved with Aquariums for over 50 years and Forums for a long time. Over those years I think I have either seen or over heard practically every thing. The latest is Dr Google if its there it must be right WRONG.

    Cycling process I put this together to help new comers to Aquariums.
    CYCLING A NEW TANK

    Some call it the biological cycle, the nitrification process, new tank syndrome or even the start-up cycle. They all are referring to the same cycle - The Nitrogen Cycle. This very important cycle is the establishment of beneficial bacteria in the aquarium and in the filter media that will help in the conversion of ammonia to nitrite and then the conversion of nitrite to nitrates. Check out the aquarium water chemistry page (on the left) for more information on these terms.
    This process can take from 2 weeks to 2 months or longer to complete. It is vital for anyone planning on keeping aquarium fish to understand this process. Learning about this process will help you to be successful in keeping fish and it should definitely improve your chances when keeping tropical fish. The best way to monitor the nitrogen cycle is to purchase a high quality test kit that will test for ammonia, nitrites, nitrates and ph.
    Test your aquarium water every other day and write down your readings. You will first see ammonia levels rising. A few weeks or so later you should see the nitrite levels rising and the ammonia levels dropping. Finally, after a few more weeks you should see the nitrate levels rising and the nitrite levels dropping. When you no longer detect ammonia or nitrites but you can detect nitrates you can assume that it is safe to add you’re FISH
    Nitrogen Cycle Stages

    Stage 1
    Ammonia is introduced into the aquarium via tropical fish waste and uneaten food. The tropical fish waste and excess food will break down into either ionized ammonium (NH4) or un-ionized ammonia (NH3). Ammonium is not harmful to tropical fish but ammonia is. Whether the material turns into ammonium or ammonia depends on the ph level of the water. If the ph is under 7, you will have ammonium. If the ph is 7 or higher you will have ammonia.

    Stage 2
    Soon, bacteria called nitrosamines will develop and they will oxidize the ammonia in the tank, essentially eliminating it. The by-product of ammonia oxidation is Nitrates. So we no longer have ammonia in the tank, but we now have another toxin to deal with - Nitrites. Nitrites are just as toxic to tropical fish as ammonia. If you have a test kit, you should be able to see the nitrite levels rise around the end of the first or second week.

    Stage 3
    Bacteria called nitrobacteria will develop and they will convert the nitrites into nitrates. Nitrates are not as harmful to tropical fish as ammonia or nitrites, but nitrate is still harmful in large amounts. The quickest way to rid your aquarium of nitrates is to perform partial water changes. Once your tank is established you will need to monitor your tank water for high nitrate levels and perform partial water changes as necessary. There are other methods to control nitrates in aquariums besides water changes. For freshwater fish tanks, live aquarium plants will use up some of the nitrates. In saltwater fish tanks, live rock and deep sand beds can have anaerobic areas where denitrifying bacteria can breakdown nitrates into harmless nitrogen gas that escapes through the water surface of the aquarium.

    Starting the Nitrogen Cycle Fishless
    There are a few different ways to get this process started. To easily get ammonia reading from your tank water try the Seachem Ammonia Alert. It sticks inside the tank and has a circle that changes colour depending on the ammonia levels in the tank.

    1: Using Fish Food
    Drop in a few flakes every 12 hours. As the food decomposes it will release ammonia. You will have to continue to "feed" the tank throughout the process to keep it going.

    2: Use a small piece of raw fish or a raw shrimp
    Drop a 2 inch by 1 inch chunk of raw fish or a raw shrimp into the tank. As it decomposes it will release ammonia into the tank.

    3: Use 100% pure ammonia.
    Using a dropper, add 5 drops of ammonia per 10 gallons of aquarium water. If you don't get an ammonia reading with your test kit, add some more drops until you start to see an ammonia reading. Keep track of how many drops you've used so you can repeat this process daily. Continue to dose the tank with ammonia until you start to get nitrite readings with your test kit. Once you can detect nitrites you should only add 3 drops of ammonia per 10 gallons of aquarium water, or if you added more drops originally to get an ammonia reading cut the amount of drops used in half. Continue this process daily until you get nitrate readings with your test kit. Do 30% water change and your tank is ready.

    4: Use gravel and/or filter media from an established and cycled tank
    This is one way to go. This will seed the tank with all of the necessary bacteria for the nitrogen cycle. "Feed" the tank daily with flake food until you are getting nitrate readings. Depending on how fast you were able to get the gravel and filter media into your tank, you may be getting nitrate readings in only a day or two. There are some drawbacks to this method. Ask your source if they have recently used any copper medications in the tank. If they have and you are planning to have invertebrates in the tank you should probably not use this method. Invertebrates will not tolerate copper. Get a copper test kit to determine if it's safe to use.

    Speeding up the Cycling Process Increase the temperature of your aquarium water to 27C-28C 80F-82F

    There are products called Bio Starters on the market today like Sera Nitrivec/Seachem Stability there are also others that do a excellent job in helping to cycle your tank.

    Why as this can become very expensive when you have to buy water when doing your 30-40% weekly water changes.
    It could be very hard to sell privately as their health might not be very good.
    If that is the case its a matter of cut your losses and find a LFS Local Fish Store that is interested in you and quality advice not the big $$$$ .

    For a new tank that sounds rather strange. Am I correct in saying you do not have a good test kit?

    First thing I would do would be take out all those Ornaments they could be leaching something that is not suitable for the Aquarium plus they are taking up a lot of water space which at the moment is extremely important.

    Aventura Florida thank you for filling in your location correctly its going to be a big help.

    As a starter open a new Topic in Beginners and ask if any Member living in your area can assist you in locating a good LFS (Do not name your LFS on ASW please)

    Over all it sounds like you are going to require a lot of assistance to get you on the right track and an Aquascape you can be proud of.

    As far as designing your Aquascape that is easy for me as I have a very long design background.

    Keith:cat::cat:
     
  7. jordimex

    jordimex New Member

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    About the faucet water i know what you mean I'm trying to get a RO kit to install there for the moment they are charging me .25c ver gallon so i think its not that bad
    I will definitely try to go to a LFS tomorrow and see if they would take the fish as is.
    they used the API Freshwater Aquarium Master Test Kit to test my water for ammonia, nitrite and nitrates and said that everything was on the green
    as for the ornaments i will be taking them out as well
    and i will start a new topic in the beginners section

    Thank you very much Keith I appreciate all your help
     
  8. keithgh

    keithgh Moderator Staff Member

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    Jordimex

    [​IMG]
    The figures I always suggest are
    Nitrite "0"
    Nitrate below "10"

    On the green???
    Answer get your self a good test kit eg the API Freshwater Master Test Kit
    A how to do for you


    Keith:cat::cat:
     
  9. Culprit3

    Culprit3 Aspiring Aquascaper

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    You realize if you use just Ro/Di water you will have to remineralize it right?
     
  10. jordimex

    jordimex New Member

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    already got it and did the test my ph was between 6.8 and 7, ammonia 0 ppm, nitrite 0 ppm and nitrate 0 ppm as well
     
  11. keithgh

    keithgh Moderator Staff Member

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    jordimex

    When Cycling your Ph will be all over the place and it will not be of any concern. You can do a pH test if you want to. The biggest problem beginners read the pH and start to adjust the water WRONG leave it alone its like that because of the Cycling process.

    I personally would do a 50% water change and double dose with the Seachem Stability.
    Your filter if it has any Carbon in it at all remove it immediately its not required.
    When using Stability on average it will be cycled in about 14days. Have you removed all those ornaments including the plastic plants?
    What is the black substrate in the back LH corner.

    Which tank are you cycling now?

    Keith:cat::cat:
     
  12. jordimex

    jordimex New Member

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    i am cycling the 65 gal tank the black substrate on the LH corner is Eco Complete Planted Black Aquarium Substrate I did some research and is one of the best in the market, and yes i removed the ornaments there is no plastic plants on the tank
     
    keithgh likes this.
  13. keithgh

    keithgh Moderator Staff Member

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    jordimex
    Do you have an knowledge on Reconditioning RO/DI water for freshwater.
    I never have. I am going to open a topic requesting information from users of RO/DI water in their FW tanks.

    Keith:cat::cat:
     
  14. jordimex

    jordimex New Member

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    no idea to be honest it would be a great topic!!!
     
  15. keithgh

    keithgh Moderator Staff Member

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  16. jordimex

    jordimex New Member

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  17. jordimex

    jordimex New Member

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    Keithgh
    quick question how can you be sure on the water tests in what parameter you are since almost all colors are similar?
     
  18. ShadowMac

    ShadowMac Moderator Staff Member

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    Hello jordimex and welcome to ASW.

    Looks like you got some good advice about the stocking of those fish in those small tanks. It is unfortunate but it happens all the time...stores sell fish to folks without the right setup or without knowing. A coworker of mine was sold a yoyo loach to go in a 1.5 gallon bowl with a betta. o_O

    Eco complete is an inert substrate, so it doesn't do anything for your plants. It is glorified gravel. You don't have to get rid of it, but should consider adding some root tabs around your plants and to use fertilizers for the water column to ensure your plants get the nutrients they need.

    Why do you need RO water? What are your tap water parameters? What is the KH, GH, and pH? Most people do not need RO water if they have treated municipal water.

    Where is Aventura?

    Lastly, could you outline your goals for your tank and maybe share a couple photos of what you want to accomplish? Consider that often times many aquascapes require additional equipment and lighting than standard fish only tanks. You may need a pressurized CO2 system to grow some plants.

    Oh..and if you have some time there is an English podcast or two on Aquascaping and keeping planted tanks. Might answer some questions ;)
     
  19. keithgh

    keithgh Moderator Staff Member

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    jordimex

    https://www.google.com/maps/@25.9563212,-80.1546453,14z

    For all of my tanks over 50 years I only ever used the 1-3mm standard river gravel.
    Many years later and having a Computer I found Aquarium Forums and it was here I learnt about plant foliar feeding and root Tabs also when used together corectlyyou should always have very healthy plants.

    Keith:cat::cat:
     
  20. jordimex

    jordimex New Member

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    sorry for the long time without posting the 65 gal is doing great i finished the cycle and everything started to stabilize
    since the begging all of my parameters have been 0 for nitrate nitrite and ammonia my PH currently is 7.6
    I bought some baby tears mats and all did good for a while but then started turning brown, from what i have been reading this is because they need Co2 today i went to a new LFS that opened not far from my house and got a Ista co2 kit i am not sure how to do this but its up and running any advice? IMG_7412.JPG
     

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