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CalmSeasQuest's Big Blue Wall

Discussion in 'Saltwater Aquascapes' started by CalmSeasQuest, Mar 16, 2014.

  1. CalmSeasQuest

    CalmSeasQuest Aspiring Aquascaper

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    Location:
    Brighton, MI
    Greetings all,

    I've been away from ASW for the past year or so as family and business demanded all my available time. I've been a long time "salty" who's trying the planted world. My first attempt now sits in my foyer. Although it's still dry, I smile every time I walk past it...

    [​IMG]

    While I look forward to resuming my Iwagumi build, I'm presently working on a large reef build and was asked to create a build thread.

    Over the past 20 years, I've built and kept a variety of smaller reef tanks including a series of rather "unique" desktop tanks. I finally have an opportunity for a larger build. This system is being placed in the living of my home with ATO and AWC equipment directly below the tank in the basement. It should end up around 325 gallons.
    Here's the current equipment list:
    • Tank -- Great Lakes Aquarium (GLA) 270 (96" X 30 X 22) 1/2" Starphire, open top w/clear cross bracing fitted with a BeanAnimal style internal overflow (3 X 1.5" drains)
    • Sump -- GLA 72" X 24" X 18", 135 gallon glass sump, center return with 30" X 24" refugeum
    • Lighting, Display tank -- Kessil 360WEs, (5-7) controlled by the Apex
    • Lighting, Sump/Refugeum - YTBD
    • Return Pump -- Fluval SP6 135W @ 3434 GPH feeding return, refugeum and manifold
    • Controller - Apex Aquacontroller, w/various modules.
    • Skimmer -- Bubble King Double Cone 250 w/Vertex Vectra Engine automated neck cleaner
    • Calcium reactor -- GEO 612 w/Tropic Eden and NeoMag. Aquarium Plants digital regulator
    • Kalk Reactor -- 40Gal still well fed by ATO peristaltic pump
    • Saltwater Make-up and storage - 2 X 200 gallon Norwesco 30" X 72" tanks, fed and mixed by Waveline 12000 (backup for return pump)
    • Continous Water Change (CWC) - Cole-Parmer Masterflex w/dual peristaltic pumps
    • ATO -- Osmolator water sensor using Cole-Parmer peristaltic pump.
    • Water movement - YTBD likely a combination of MP60s and WP60s
    • Rock -- BRS Pukani, Reef Saver and Marco rock
    • Substrate -- 2" Tropic Eden Reef Flakes
    • Heaters -- 2X 300W Eheim-JAGER TS, 1 Cobalt NeoTherm 200W
    • GFO/GAC -- 2 X Vertex RX-U 2.5L reactors running HiCap GFO and ROX .08 GAC as needed
    • BioPellets - YTBD
    • UV - YTBD
    • Ozone - YTBD
    The tank was ordered 12/16/13, expected tank and stand build time about 6 weeks. There's a lot to get done in the interim including,

    - Relocate 2 existing tanks, remove hung LED lighting, repair and paint
    - Remove carpeting and tile tank area
    - Complete water RO/DI storage, Saltwater mixing, CWC and ATO station in basement

    I expected to have to do some floor strengthening, but was pleasantly surprised to find it was not necessary. I had the tank location reviewed by a structural engineer. The tank will sit perpendicular to 5 2X10 joists spanning only 48" between the poured basement wall and steel I-beam. Nothing additional was recommended as the intended location will support 5500lbs.

    Lots of decisions still pending including final decisions on lighting, overflow and sump design. This will also be my first attempt as hard-plumbing. I figured I'd start with the saltwater mixing station hoping to make the beginner mistakes there rather than on the tank.

    For those that might be wondering about the "Big Blue Wall" thread title -- I'm planning on painting the wall behind the tank a cobalt blue (the rest of the room is white.) As the Kessil pendants put out an incredible amount of shimmer, and this tank is open-top, I'm hopeful it might turn the entire wall into an interesting, shimmery backdrop for the tank.

    Thank you for taking the time to read this and for tagging along.
     
    CatfishSoupFTW, ShadowMac and keithgh like this.

    Sponsored link:


  2. CalmSeasQuest

    CalmSeasQuest Aspiring Aquascaper

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    Location:
    Brighton, MI
    I've largely decided on the sump design, I'm going to enlarge the below uncleof6 design that will provide a 20X24X10 skimmer area, 18X24X9 for the return pump and 30X24X12 for a fuge/frag area. This should be about 75 gallons in operational volume and allow for about ~50 gallons in overflow when the return pump is off (I'll use a wye check valve on the return, but never trust them.)

    [​IMG]

    All that needs to be added is a manifold and slight rerouting of the siphon and trickle drains to incorporate the occasional use of filter socks. I'll create a 5 tap manifold for the GFO, GAC and BioPellet reactors and a couple spares.

    [​IMG]

    RO/DI and Saltwater tanks are in place. Each hold 200 gallons (30"DiaX72"tall) I've started roughing out the plumbing and the Waveline DC12000 should get here Monday along with a few missing plumbing components.

    I'm estimating ~7 GPD evaporation. I'll rig a latching float system with the Apex which will automatically fill the RO/DI tank. Other than monitoring and periodically changing RO/DI filters, resin and membranes, The ATO system should require very little maintenance.

    The plan for the AWC is to use a Masterflex pump driving 2 peristaltic pumps to replace about 4 GPD. This should yield a ~40% monthly water change and require refilling the saltwater tank every 6~7 weeks.
     
    keithgh likes this.
  3. CalmSeasQuest

    CalmSeasQuest Aspiring Aquascaper

    Joined:
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    Location:
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    After much deliberation, I committed to the Kessils A360WE's and took advantage of a 10% off coupon through ReefGeek (not to mention the things are sold out most everywhere else.) With my shallow depth and the additional 15% output from the new "E" models, I'm hopeful they will end up being a great choice.

    [​IMG][​IMG]
    5 - A360WE Controllable LED Aquarium Light - Wide Angle Lens
    5 - 90 Degree Gooseneck Adapter
    1 - Control Unit Link Cable for A360 and A360W to Neptune Systems Apex
    5 - Control Unit Link Cable for A360 and A360W KSL0103
    5 - Gooseneck Clamp/Mount for A150, A350, and A360

    I ordered 5 to begin with to see what 1 unit every 18" looks like. The gooseneck adapters should give me the ability to "stagger" the lights if needed to cover the 30" front/back.

    In finalizing the designs for the saltwater mixing station, I'm reconsidering the use of a Kalk reactor.

    Years back I read a great article written by Randy Holmes-Farley on the benefits of adding vinegar to fortify Kalk. Since then, I've had success adding vinegar to Kalk, both to increase the amount of available calcium and as an added carbon source. I attribute this process (in addition to the use of DSBs) to my never having any nitrate issues. As this will be my first large tank with a SSB, I want to do all I can to maximize biological filtration - including the use of vinegar. The use of a Kalk reactor makes that more complicated. Instead, I plan on adding a covered 40 gallon brute to the mixing/storage station which will be fed by the RO/DI storage tank and hold an over-saturation of Kalk to which Vinegar can be dosed. This will be the ATO source.

    This will allow me to continue using Vinegar, eliminate the cost of another reactor and most importantly - save space in the cabinet. It will also forestall the need for a larger CaRx and likely remove entirely the need for a bio-pellet reactor (Anecdotally, I found no benefits when I tested adding Bio-Pellets concurrently with vinegar dosing.)

    Adding yet another water container will be a tight fit in the basement, but I think the benefits outweigh the inconvenience, and if for some reason it fails to perform as expected, I can always add the Kalk Reactor.
     
    keithgh likes this.
  4. CalmSeasQuest

    CalmSeasQuest Aspiring Aquascaper

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    Location:
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    The first DC12000 arrived - it looks tiny next to the 200G tanks...
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    Most of the plumbing is mocked up - I'm missing one union to account for the 1 1/2" intake in the Waveline. I installed a 4X8 3/4" plywood wall that will be painted white upon which the water treatment equipment and electrical will be installed. A shelf will hold the Masterflex pumps. The 40 gallon brute will serve as a still reservoir holding Kalk for the ATO...

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    I picked up a 100g stock tank to aid in cleaning/curing the Pukani and will serve as a temp holding tank for my current livestock when I tear down the two existing tanks.
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    Very soon - there will be NO more buckets :D

    I fitted this Masterflex peristaltic pump with two pump heads which turn about a single shaft. This allows them to move very close to identical liquid volumes with very little maintenance (such as having to calibrate pumps and take-apart pump heads to perform periodic maintenance as is required in systems such as the Litermeter III.) By simply reversing the direction in which the tubing is placed in the pump head, you can have one pump "push" while the other "pulls"

    This will drive the continuous water change system (CWC) - One head will remove old saltwater from the return section of the sump, while the other simultaneously adds the exact amount of new saltwater to the return section. Depending on the final lengths of each run, there may be a small difference in the exact volumes pumped. If this occurs, I'll use an pinch or IV style ramp clamp to slightly impede the faster of the two line.

    Based on the amount of water being exchanged, the 200 gallon saltwater storage tank should run quite a while before requiring refilling. When the tank is new, I'll probably set it to change 20% monthly which will run for about 11 weeks before requiring refilling. As the bio-load increases, the touch of a button increases the amount of water exchanged to whatever is desired.

    I've found these pumps to be nearly bulletproof as they are designed for constant duty. I've had one feeding a CaRx 24/7 for almost 5 years with no maintenance whatsoever (even the tubing is original as it runs at very low RPM.) In theory it should be provide stability for the tank and be a "set it and forget" style system (at least for a couple months at a time.)
     
    keithgh likes this.
  5. CalmSeasQuest

    CalmSeasQuest Aspiring Aquascaper

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    Location:
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    Prior to beginning any work on the saltwater station, I had to clear out all the items collected over the last 22 years that were stored that part of the furnace room...

    I sacrificed a rarely used guest room in the basement, converting it into a storage facility....
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    Area tiled, mounting area for water treatment equipment and pumps sealed...
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    Tanks put back in place...
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    Bottom manifold completed and installed...
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    Still have to drill the tops of the tanks and complete the upper manifold. Then I can begin moving the RO/DI equipment into place.
     
    keithgh likes this.
  6. CalmSeasQuest

    CalmSeasQuest Aspiring Aquascaper

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    Location:
    Brighton, MI
    We're making water :)

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    I filled both tanks and to my surprise, had only a couple of small leaks (fixed.) I'm elated as this was my first attempt at hard plumbing. Everthing seems to function as intended so far. I'm impressed with the Waveline 12000 - it moves an incredible amount of water and is very quiet. One small problem - I had to use raw well water to leak test the tanks which contains a fair amount of precipitated iron. I need to get the tanks and lines rinsed as soon as I've got about a 100 gallons of water made.

    There is still lots to do, but at least I'm able to start making water. Next will be,

    Rinse the inside of the tanks as soon as I've got enough water. I have a second, 75GDP Dow Filmtec RO membrane that I may try adding to increase the output. I'm pretty lucky, my RO running at 100 PSI generates 1 TDS water to the DI resin, so I think the second membrane will work

    Fill the stock tank and start soaking the Pukani (need to get this done so I can use the tank to transfer the existing livestock.)

    Clean up all the water and power line runs and run an Aquabus cable so I can gain control of the E8B

    Run the Fill/Drain line (a single 3/4" line will both fill and drain the tank), CWC and ATO lines upstairs

    I still have to decide on the automation. For the RO tank, A latching valve arrangement is tough as I can't get at the bottom of the tank. I'll probably use a simple float valve tied to the Apex. Turning on the RO once every couple weeks or so for just long enough to top off the tank. The Kalk/ATO tank is a bit trickier. I don't think a float or optical sensor will work well as a hard crust forms on the surface of the water. In addition, vinegar has to be added with each fill. For the time being, I'll probably just fill it manually. It should be a weekly item and only requires opening a single valve. I've got a bunch of BRS top-off and dosing pumps on hand - I'll work on automating the top off and vinegar add once everything else is done :)
     
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  7. CalmSeasQuest

    CalmSeasQuest Aspiring Aquascaper

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    Location:
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    I installed the second RO membrane. With ~310TDS softened, working water, it's now producing about 150 GPD, but the RO product water did increase to 3TDS. I'm shocked it's working as well as it is - in fact, I assumed the inline TDS meters might have been wrong but my hand-held provided the same results. I'll gladly accept the 3TDS as the SpectraPure SilcaBuster and MaxCap DI resin works very well.

    Here's a quick video showing the flow on the Waveline DC12000 running at full-output. This is looking down through the cover on one of the 200 gallon tanks (~7' head) with 1 1/4" plumbing...

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    [video]http://i1143.photobucket.com/albums/n622/CalmSeasQuest/Reef/CSQ Big Blue Wall/DSC_3762.mp4[/video]

    The RO/DI is cranking out 0TDS water at the rate of about 150GPH, but I'm hearing new noises emanating from the boost pump. It's an older pump and likely due to be rebuilt/replaced. I'm also concerned that it might be out-drawing the 1/4" feed coming from the saddle valve.

    I decided to order a new Aquatronic 8800 boost pump, pressure switch and solenoid that will cut the flow of water to the system when the pump is de-energized. I'm also adding a second saddle valve which will be T'd into the supply side of the RO/DI.

    A float at the top of the RO storage tank will turn off the pump and cut the water supply to the RO/DI. Once I determine the evaporation rates and fill times required, I'll use the Apex to manage the pump on/off days and run times of the pump as a fail-safe.
     
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  8. CalmSeasQuest

    CalmSeasQuest Aspiring Aquascaper

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    Location:
    Brighton, MI
    Happiness is having 400 gallons of RO/DI available at the turn of a valve :)

    I'm waiting on a few more parts to complete the plumbing upstairs to the tank area. My plan is to run a single 3/4" line with a couple valves such that it can be used to both fill, and drain the tank.

    I took a break from working on the saltwater station and turned my focus to prepping the live rock I have on hand. I considered using Muriatic acid to dissolve the outer layer of the rock (hopefully including the bound phosphates), but the weather here makes that more difficult...

    [​IMG]
    -5F and 15"+ of snow presents a challenge working the rock outside.

    So instead, I put the ~100lbs of Pukani and some BRS reef saver I had on hand in the stock tank with 20:1 RO/bleach solution, a heater set to 82F and one of the new WP25's I just received to keep the water moving.

    [​IMG]

    I used a few pieces of acrylic I had on hand left over from prior projects to minimize evaporation and keep the bleach fumes contained...

    [​IMG]
    I'll bleach it for a few days, then empty the tank, rinse - then refill with saltwater. I ordered Lanthanum Chloride (SeaKlear) to help reduce what I'm sure will be a ton of Phosphates that leach from the Pukani.

    Once complete, I'll transfer the rock into Brutes to continue the curing/make live process while I move my existing livestock to the stock tank.
     
    keithgh likes this.
  9. CalmSeasQuest

    CalmSeasQuest Aspiring Aquascaper

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    Skimmer ordered :)

    [​IMG]
    BK Double Cone 250 RD3

    I installed the new RO booster pump, pressure switch, solenoid and second water feed...

    [​IMG]

    I'm really pleased at how well it's producing. With 100PSI across the membranes, I've got ~310TDS softened well water being reduced to ~2TDS by the RO and cranked out at ~150 GPD. The Spectrapure MaxCap and Silica Buster DI resins should last many hundreds of gallons.

    I finished bleaching the rock, now I'm trying vinegar to dissolve a bit of the exterior layer. It's not as effective as Muriatic acid, but I can deal with it inside. I'm debating on ordering a bit more rock from BRS or perhaps Marco as I also need more Thorite.

    I also finished pressure-testing the storage tanks and manifold - Topped off with 400 gallons - No Leaks :)
     
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  10. CalmSeasQuest

    CalmSeasQuest Aspiring Aquascaper

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    Location:
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    Let there be light...
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    Vertex Vectra Engine automated neck cleaner ordered for the BK...
    [​IMG]

    and Lanthanum Chloride so I can finish cooking the rocks...
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    The kids chose the color for the reef wall - Sapphire Lace, a shade darker than Cobalt. The shimmer from the Kessils should bring the whole wall to life.
     
    keithgh likes this.
  11. CalmSeasQuest

    CalmSeasQuest Aspiring Aquascaper

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    Location:
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    After bleach and a vinegar soak, I've got the rock in saltwater in a 40 gallon Brute...
    [​IMG]
    I cranked up the temp to 82 and dosed MB-7. I'll let it "percolate" a couple days then test Phosphates which I assume will be off the charts. Probably do a water change, wait a couple more days and test Phosphates again before starting the Lanthanum Chloride.

    Next will be transferring the livestock from my existing DT and FT to the stock tank...
    [​IMG]
    It's crude, but should suffice. I'll use the Apex on the existing system to manage it. I'll have to fabricate a skimmer stand, or perhaps just do larger water changes (I'm loving the water change station - just turn 2 valves and water change is done :)) As there will only be a pair of clowns and my Mandarin residing in the ~70 gallons, I may just go skimmerless during the transition.

    Once the tanks are shut down, it's paint, tile and new carpet for the living room, finish routing the plumbing upstairs and perhaps add another 20 amp circuit then relocate the TV, audio and gaming equipment into the new media room (formerly my library)...THEN I'll be ready for the tank :)
     
    keithgh likes this.
  12. CalmSeasQuest

    CalmSeasQuest Aspiring Aquascaper

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    Location:
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    Big box on the porch...

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    keithgh likes this.
  13. CalmSeasQuest

    CalmSeasQuest Aspiring Aquascaper

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    I have to admit, I don't normally get that caught up in the aesthetics of equipment that will be buried in a sump, but I think the Double Cone is absolutely beautiful. I'll probably leave it sitting on my coffee table until install just so I can stare at it :)

    I've been researching other pumps including the 80W Red Dragon 3 (GREAT pump, but very pricey and undersized for my application), The WaterBlasters (I've had a bad one in the past and dealt with rusting screws) and lastly the Laguna/Askolls. I was leaning toward a Laguna 4200 when I stumbled on the Fluval SP6. It appears to be a Laguna with upgrades designed specifically for saltwater use. The specs look good,

    [​IMG]

    Input/Output Diameter: 1.25"
    Flow Rate: 3434GPH
    Max. Head Pressure: 13 feet
    Flow Rate at 4.5 feet: 2250 GPH
    Power Consumption: 135W

    I can't find a head pressure chart, but as my max head will be ~5' and a lot of flow will be in-sump for the refugeum and manifold - It's relatively new, but all the comments appear positive. I think it's worth a try.
     
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  14. CalmSeasQuest

    CalmSeasQuest Aspiring Aquascaper

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    Location:
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    Made some progress this week...

    • Apex, lighting (Maxspect, Orphek DIF50 and Kessil 360WE) Skimmer (Tunze 9016) and ATO installed on the stock tank
    • Display and frag tank shut down and moved with livestock transferred to the stock tank
    • Finished bleach and vinegar baths and rinsed Pukani - One more soak and Phosphate testing needed.
    Components continue to arrive including the Vertex Vectra Engine...

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    [video=youtube_share;Prn3w001zb4]
     
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  15. CalmSeasQuest

    CalmSeasQuest Aspiring Aquascaper

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    Location:
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    The tank is about 2 weeks out - I managed to get the drywall work and painting completed - Now I've got a "Big Blue Wall" :)

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    I decided to go with black Alterna tile (Vinyl/limestone composite tile - looks like stone, but much more forgiving), which I hope will be installed in about 10 days. New carpet probably won't arrive until after the tank is delivered.
     
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  16. CalmSeasQuest

    CalmSeasQuest Aspiring Aquascaper

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    I just heard from the tile installers, they will be onsite in a couple days. I caught a bit of a break as every retailer I spoke with said they were backlogged with builder jobs and that it would be at least a month before they could get to my small job.

    I continue to spend time cleaning all of the Pukani I've got on hand. There is no doubt it is the lightest/most porous, but it is also the dirtiest and the least imaginative in shape. I'm considering going a different direction. I've got about 150 lbs of BRS Reef Saver on hand which although heaver, is very clean and better shaped. I'm going to place another order with Marco and forgo most of the Pukani for this build.

    To aid in establishing biological filtration with minimal rock in the DT, I also ordered more plate and sphere shaped Marine Pure ceramic media which will be housed in the sump...

    [​IMG]
    I've used this before with success in other builds where I had very little rock in the display. I'll seed it in my temporary holding tanks to hasten the cycle.

    Tile down, ready for glass...

    [​IMG]
     
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  17. CalmSeasQuest

    CalmSeasQuest Aspiring Aquascaper

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    I got the Marine Pure rinsed and placed in the stock tank. I really like this stuff - I added 4 of the 8" X 8" x 1" plates and 1 gallon of the spheres (about 75 individual spheres.) Using their area calculations, that provides ~41,000 Sq Ft of surface area for biological filtration. Not only will it help hasten the cycle, but as I'm planning a rather open aquascape with lots of negative space, it minimizes the amount of rock needed in the DT while occupying very little space in the sump.

    Next decision is finalizing the sump. This design is from uncle06, and I believe was derived from Melev's designs, so I'm pretty comfortable with the overall layout. My questions regard the dimensions and depth - The glass sump is 72" X 24" X 18", Here's what I have currently...

    [​IMG]

    The drains are set up Bean Animal style with 3 X 1.5" drains. The 1" return feeds 2 X 3/4" loc-lines. I'll add a 4 port manifold off the return pump to drive reactors and may configure it using a second pump for redundancy (I'm a little concerned about getting/keeping the siphon tuned with the variations caused by the manifold.) The baffles are set at 1 1/2" yielding the following...

    Skimmer section - 20" X 24" X 10" = ~20.8 gallons
    Return Section - 18" X 24" X 10" = ~18.7 gallons
    Fuge/Frag section - 30" X 24" X 12" = 37.4 gallons

    After estimating the equipment volume, the above should provide ~35 gallons for pump-failure overflow from the DT (I'll have a check valve, but never trust them.) The loc-line will be drilled with anti-siphon holes, so i don't think it will drain more than 2", which would be no more than 25 gallons - which the sump should easily hold in the event the check valve failed.

    With the skimmer and return section depth set to 10", I'll have to raise the skimmer a couple inches, but thankfully I've got enough head room to do so. I'm going with 10" water depth to maximize the amount of evaporation before the return pump would run dry in the event of an ATO failure.
     
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  18. CalmSeasQuest

    CalmSeasQuest Aspiring Aquascaper

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    I got a surprise today, had an electrician out to add a couple 20 amp circuits for the tank. I learned I can't add any more circuits as my connection box uses an aluminum bus and is more than 20 years old (apparently code.) Their solution was upgrading the box and service to the tune of $3800. I've got plenty of circuits and amperage available near the tank, I just wanted dedicated circuits for simplicity and redundancy.

    A high quality GFI power strip will resolve my issue for quite a bit less.
     
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  19. CalmSeasQuest

    CalmSeasQuest Aspiring Aquascaper

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    Working through the electrical plan. I've got 3 circuits - 2 @ 15 amps and 1 @ 20 amps (although the 20 amp circuit is shared with a rarely used sump pump.) I'm using individual Shock Buster GFIs on each circuit to minimize the impact of any false-trips. The current plan is,

    Circuit #1 (entire run is on a GFI) ~800W
    Tripp Light commercial 20 outlet metal power strip
    1-7 7X - Kessil 360WE LED lights (7X90W=630W)
    8 - CaRx feed pump - 50W
    9 - Apex power plug (for power fail sensing) - 10W
    10 - CaRx mixing pump - 50W
    11 - MP60 - 60W (Vortech battery backup)
    12 - MP60 - 60W (Vortech battery backup)
    13- 20 - Future Use

    Circuit #2 (Saltwater station - ~780W)
    EB8 on Tower Shock Buster auto resetting GFI
    1 - Waveline DC12000 Mixing/Transfer pump - 170W
    2 - Aquatec 8800 RO Boost Pump - 110W
    3 - ASW Heater/300W
    4 - AWC Masterflex Pump - 100W
    5 - ATO Pump (YTBD)
    6-8 Future Use

    Circuit 3A (1400VA APC SmartUPS) ~ 495W
    EB8 on Tower Shock Buster auto resetting GFI -
    1 - Fluval SP6 return pump - 135W
    2 - Heater/300W (set at 76f/78f)
    3 - WP-60 - 60W
    4 - 8 Future Use

    Circuit 3B ~590W
    EB8 on Tower Shock Buster auto resetting GFI
    1 - Heater/300W (set at 77f/79f)
    2 - Vertex Vectra Skimmer neck cleaner - 20W
    3 - BK Skimmer - 50W
    4 - Cabinet lights - 50W
    5 - WP-60 - 60W
    6 - Fuge/Frag light - 90W
    7 - Moon lights - 10W
    8 - AP Digital CO2 regulator - 10W

    Normally I would keep the cable modem and router on the UPS as well so the Apex could alert me to the power outage, but whenever we lose power, our cable service also goes down (even with the modem and router still online.)

    This ends up about 2170 Watts maximum utilization or just short of 20 amps divided between 3 circuits. The actual load should be much less (i.e. the second heater will probably only be needed overnight when the house temp is allowed to drop and the main LEDs are off.) This also leaves overhead for future additions such as fans, BP reactor, Kalk stirrer... I'm hoping this provides redundancy should a single GFI trip. In the event of a power outage, the UPS should keep the return pump, WP-60, and controller running for at least 30 minutes (long enough to bring a 7000W gas generator online.)
     
    keithgh likes this.
  20. CalmSeasQuest

    CalmSeasQuest Aspiring Aquascaper

    Joined:
    Jun 14, 2012
    Likes Received:
    62
    Location:
    Brighton, MI
    Good news on the electrical front,

    I was thinking through the comments from the first electrician that had said circuits could not be added to my box (despite available room on the bus.) His push to install a new panel and bus (at significant cost) made me question his motives. On a hunch I called a second electrical firm to review my situation. They found the box and bus in good shape and have no problem adding 2, 20 amp circuits.

    So although I'll have to slightly rework my plan, I'll have 2 dedicated 20 amp circuits to work with. :)

    Happiness is....40 amps of dedicated circuits :)

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Waterproof covers are on the way for all outlets close to the tank.
     
    keithgh likes this.

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