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Algae or Fungus?

Discussion in 'Algae' started by xigtc, Apr 21, 2017.

  1. xigtc

    xigtc Aspiring Aquascaper

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    I've got a 5g Spec setup now for a couple of weeks. Was all going pretty well and boom not so pretty things began growing on my rocks next onto the plants. Finnex 12" FugeRay
    LED light, Eco Complete substrate, Osmocote root tabs, also dosing a liquid macro&micro. Running CO2 @ 1 bps.
    I'll let the pictures speak for now. I've got to get to bed because tomorrow I'm doing an Autism awareness fundraiser. [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]



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    Last edited: Apr 22, 2017
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  2. keithgh

    keithgh Moderator Staff Member

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    xigtc

    I hope one of the plant experts can identify and assist you with the cure.

    Keith:cat::cat:
     
  3. keithgh

    keithgh Moderator Staff Member

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    That was one of my thoughts but it looks too thready for me, that is the reason for posting it here.

    Once you get a positive identification the rest is easy.

    One of the members to identify it is off with a health problem for a bit longer.

    Shawn might be able to help.

    Keith:cat::cat:
     
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  4. Zeus

    Zeus Active Aquascaper

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    Not expert here either, but what filter flow specs have you on your setup. Also what photo period you using ? Plus water changes frequency and percent have you been doing? The
    The low plant density you have and resent setup off your tank from my reading around would suggest it may be just one of the transit algea blooms which tanks undergo when setup.
    The info I have asked will help the plant experts advise you on the best course of action too.
    When was you planning to add your clean up crew also- Amanos etc
    Done any water tests ammonia, nitrites, nitrates also? Although the the results from the hobbist level test kits are not reliable.
    Might be worth increasing the BBS to encourage plant grow! What colour change you getting on your drop checker also.

    Sent from Mountolympus via neural interface
     
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  5. keithgh

    keithgh Moderator Staff Member

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    Zeus

    Thank you for your reply every bit of useful information is always helpful.

    xigtc It will help if you get a full water test done also how was it done, plus all the information about your lighting type hrs times for O/Off etc and you Co2 hrs On Off etc

    Keith:cat::cat:
     
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  6. Zeus

    Zeus Active Aquascaper

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    Think you had missed your morning coffee intake before your earlier post keithgh as it was all the questions you normally ask ;)

    Sent from Mountolympus via neural interface
     
  7. keithgh

    keithgh Moderator Staff Member

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    Zeus

    Yes I had my morning coffee later today but afternoon coffee on time.

    Keith:cat::cat:
     
  8. Tim Harrison

    Tim Harrison Moderator Staff Member

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    Looks like some sort of diatomaceous algae. It often occurs in newly set up tanks and can persist until the plants have settled in and the the tank matures to become biologically stable.
    It can be reduced by a regime of frequent and substantial water changes along with manual removal; twirling it around a tooth brush.
    For a new scape, it's often recommended that 50% of the water be changed every day for the first week, every second day for the second week and every third day for the third week and thereafter once a week.
    Amano shrimp will usually eat it...
     
  9. xigtc

    xigtc Aspiring Aquascaper

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    Okay for starters I'm using an API master test kit. I let everything turn on as scheduled this morning. Here's what everything reads this morning.
    [​IMG]sorry its 2 pictures I loaned my kit to a friend and lost a tube.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    In the past the drop checker sat with a green hue to it. Still looks blue this morning but the co2 hasn't been on long.

    As for light and co2 it's set accordingly. Co2 on 1 hour before lights on/off and lights run in two 4 hour periods. The tank isn't near a window and it's in a basement. The lights in the room are only on when someone is home. That pretty much matches when the tank lights run so we can view it. The pump on the filter is pretty much running full speed. It makes all the plants sway a little so I think I've got enough flow.

    As for water changes I've been staying on top of them doing at least one 50% water change everyday or every other. Water is treated using Seachem Prime and Stability. The filter media came from the canister running on my 50g tank.


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    Last edited: Apr 22, 2017
  10. Zeus

    Zeus Active Aquascaper

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    No expect again, but i would try to get the drop checker to have light yellow tinge to it. Most other scaper who use the in tank diffusers normally have the CO2 coming on 2hrs before photo period as they take some time, if you was using a pH controller you can use a much higher BBS (as i do) but the CO2 is then switched off when target pH is reached. Takes mine 56mins to get to ideal [CO2] but there is no way i can count the BBS it's so high. I would also cut the photoperiod down to one 6hrs with CO2 going off 2hrs before end.
    As Tim says I also think your tank is going though the start up process but decreasing photoperiod and slightly higher [CO2] will also help counter the algea. Plus as soon as the ammonia and nitrites are safe Amanos if you plan to get them.
    Putting an airstone in for nightie will also help keep flow up and [O2] good for growth off plants at night and help reduce the surface biofilm. But no airstone on when CO2 on - as increased flow and surface agitation increases CO2 loss.
    I never got any startup algea but i did a Dry Start plus used a Twinstar once tank was flooded too. I still have my photo period for 6hrs but have increased the light intensity. From my reading and advise from others is don't increase the photoperiod too quick. As long as the plants aren't melting they will be growing.
    Good luck and keep us updated, hope I've been some help

    Sent from Mountolympus via neural interface
     
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  11. xigtc

    xigtc Aspiring Aquascaper

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    Okay! I will tweak the co2 timer for 2 hrs before on/off and reduce the light to 6 hours. Thank you all for the motivation and info. I'm not giving up.


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  12. Tim Harrison

    Tim Harrison Moderator Staff Member

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    If you stay on top of tank husbandry and maintain good flow and distribution of CO2 and fertz it'll eventually go away, and like Zeus says aim for a lime green (with a yellow tint) drop checker at lights on, and keep it that way untill lights off.

    Plant biomass also plays a part in reducing it. I always aim to plant very densely from the start because of this. Other folks often float fast growing stems until the tank reaches biological maturity, and then remove them.

    I had the mother of all diatomaceous problems with one scape but around six weeks later it had almost disappeared altogether.

    Before
    upload_2017-4-22_17-44-40.png

    After
    [​IMG]
     
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  13. keithgh

    keithgh Moderator Staff Member

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    Thank you Zeus and Tim for helping xigtc with the Hi Tech bits and pieces I am sure xigtc appreciates it.

    My contribution is with his water parameters
    I suggest you contact Seachem they have a very good technical help and most important a fast reply.
    Post them your parameters and ask about Prime and Stability at the same time and what quantities should you be dosing, for some reason I do not think it is required in your tank at the moment.

    Your Nitrite is OK but the Nitrate should be below "10"

    I usually recommend this but it looks like I missed giving you this info sorry about that. Buy the cheapest floating plant you can get, give it a good wash and float it until you tank is running perfectly.

    Keith:cat::cat:
     
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  14. keithgh

    keithgh Moderator Staff Member

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    Tim was referring to stem plants I always used a floating water sprite it grows very fast once it gets established.

    Duck weed is like its name a "Weed" it a curse once its established it will block out all light plus its extremely had to remove it 1oo%. I bought some plants privately and it was covered in the stuff after trying to remove every little bit I ended throwing every thing in the bin.

    I would recommend any of these easy to grow cheap plants.
    [​IMG]
    Carolina Fanwort, Green Cabomba

    [​IMG]
    Water Wisteria Hygrophila difformis

    Keith:cat::cat:


     
  15. xigtc

    xigtc Aspiring Aquascaper

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    I'll see what I can possibly find. Unfortunately I haven't found a local store here so everything is ordered. As for dosing Prime and Seachem I'm dosing the same amount I did on my old 5g. I don't have an accurate measurement to say but I marked a small cup. But I'll reach out to Seachem.


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  16. keithgh

    keithgh Moderator Staff Member

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    xigtc
    Here are the recommended dosages. I used a simple clear medicine glass your local Chemist should have them.

    Shake well before use. Turn off UV/ozone. Use 1 capful (5 mL) for each 40 L (10 US gallons) on the first day with a new aquarium. Then use 1 capful for each 80 L (20 US gallons) daily for 7 days. Fish and other aquatic species may be introduced at any time as long as dosage is maintained for 7 days. For optimum biofilter performance use 1 capful for each 80 L (20 US gallons) once a month or with each water change and whenever introducing new fish or whenever medicating an aquarium. Product shelf life is 4 years from date of manufacture, see expiration date below.

    Keith:cat::cat:
     
  17. keithgh

    keithgh Moderator Staff Member

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    TryHardDutchScaper

    Been there done that it took me many months to remove the stuff it can also get into your filter inlet and block the impeller housing.

    That is the reason I only used the floating sprite which is not easy to buy therefore I would recommended cheap stem plants like Tim did.

    Keith:cat::cat:
     
  18. xigtc

    xigtc Aspiring Aquascaper

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    I've got a friend sending me some hornwort. I think it will arrive tomorrow. Still staying on top of daily water changes and still using the new co2 and light settings. Stuff is just growing and the nitrate levels aren't dropping.
    [​IMG]

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    Last edited: Apr 25, 2017
  19. xigtc

    xigtc Aspiring Aquascaper

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    Well I'm glad it sounded like it. So far I've never had a tank cycle in this manner. I've had brown algae on the glass and hardscape never had fuzz. I'll keep pushing forward!


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  20. keithgh

    keithgh Moderator Staff Member

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    xigt
    Yes more plants will help but is it enough?

    Just going over a few points.
    The obvious is why is the "Nitrates" not dropping?
    Your testing methods how are you testing it? To do a double check take your tank water plus your water suppl and your test kit to the LFS and both do the test at the same time, this will quickly tell if its your water or your kit.

    Could it have any thing to do with your Co2, a Cycling process, any thing in the filter, are you using a Bio Starter eg Seachem Stability.

    Its going to be a slow process of elimination or looking for something else.

    Keith:cat::cat:
     

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