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1st attempt : Bonsai + Iwagumi

Discussion in 'Aquascaping Journals' started by PSPANG, Sep 1, 2017.

  1. keithgh

    keithgh Moderator Staff Member

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    PSPANG

    It seems to prefer calm water surface, moderate light under a glass top (humid air above) and Potassium fertilisers, it also appears to grow well with an addition of Excel and, Flourish.

    Keith:cat::cat:
     

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  2. PSPANG

    PSPANG New Member

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    Thanks Keith ...

    More "melt" happening overnight. 2/3 WC changed 3 days ago & just test the water - results below. Water cycling since 2 weeks ago so haven't start ferts but on every WC I'd been adding GH Booster & Potassium Bicarbonate KHCO3 to increase KH. GH & KH been fluctuating with me experimenting with the dosage - sometimes KH higher or GH higher but not higher than 4 dGH / dKH. I read somewhere that strong lighting & water movements could also be a factor so I'll dim the light & reduce water surface movement. Nitrite is high so I'll be doing 2/3 WC later. Could any of these caused the melting? Since. Hopefully this is happening coz the tank still cycling.

    pH - 6.2
    Ammonia - 0.25ppm
    Nitrite - 2.0ppm
    dGH - 3.5 - 4.0
    dKH - 0 - 1
     
  3. keithgh

    keithgh Moderator Staff Member

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    PSPANG

    You certainly are cycling.
    Starting tomorrow try a two 75% and, the second day, then two 50% and, the second day then two 35% and, the second day.

    Then 35% twice a week permanently. The first week double dose with Seachem Stability then the standard dosage after that.

    Just checking do you have any carbon in your filter and, washing the medium in the old tank water?
    I am not saying this will be the wonder cure but it will certainly help.

    Warning Forget the pH as it will be all over the place under no circumstances try to adjust it. You can still do the pH test if you want to just to see what it is doing and remember do not adjust.

    Keith:cat::cat:
     
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  4. PSPANG

    PSPANG New Member

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    Thanks Keith ... I'll also stop meddling with the KH & GH
     
  5. PSPANG

    PSPANG New Member

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    The filter is new - Hydra Filtron 1800 with carbon. Had it running about 3 weeks ago - 1 week in goldfish tank prior to flooding the planted tank. Do I need to wash the carbon medium? If yes, why? Just curious why wash if new?
     
  6. keithgh

    keithgh Moderator Staff Member

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    PSPANG

    Your Carbon is no longer required unless you are using it to remove medications.

    I was referring to the filter medium if it is not washed in the old tank water it will remove most if not all of your good bacteria.
    At every water change I would use the standard dosage and a double dosage at every filter cleaning of Seachem Stability not the LFS "It's as good as"

    Keith:cat::cat:


    CARBON AND FILTRATION

    Activated carbon is used quite commonly as part of the filtration system in aquaria, but there are many myths and, misunderstandings about its use and what it can or cannot do. Some of these myths are repeated so often that many believe them.

    Carbon is considered chemical filtration. The effectiveness of activated carbon is based on a three-step process. The first is adsorption. Static forces will attract particles adsorbing them onto the surface of the carbon. Bacteria that settle on the carbon surface will further consume the waste. Another process is the diffusion of gases. Absorbed into the carbon the gases are detoxified (i.e. Ozone O3 into oxygen O2). The third process is called chemo sorption, where particles are irreversibly bound to the carbon.


    Activated carbon removes organic pollutants, some of which discolour the water with a yellowish tint, organic acids, proteins, hormones, antibiotic compounds, and organic compounds as well as a variety of chemicals, medications, metals, and minerals.

    Inorganic substances removed are, chlorine, chloramines, colours and odour causing substances such as phenols.

    Removed organic, particles and substances adsorbed by the carbon will remain biologically active. Trapped waste particles will still decay and remain part of the aquatic system.

    Activated carbon is therefore best used on a short term basis and replaced regularly.


    Carbon is used in the aquarium especially after treatment with medications.

    Filter Carbon absorbs toxins and colorants that might occur in the aquarium

    Filter Carbon, however should not be permanently used.

    Once the Carbon is saturated it can happen, that it leaches the absorbed substances back into the water


    Carbon will remove a range of substances from water, including:

    Dissolved organic molecules - this is the primary reason to use carbon in most aquaria.

    Medications, antibiotics and dyes - this can be useful for removing excess/residual medication, but also means that carbon should be

    Removed when using medications, to avoid removal of the medication during the treatment phase.

    Chlorine and chloramines (carbon blocks are often included in RO prefilters to avoid damage to the RO membrane by chlorine and chloramines).

    Certain heavy metals - the amounts will depend on factors such as the solubility of the metal at the pH of the specific aquarium.

    It is important to note that there are certain substances that carbon will absorb any significant amount of, which include:

    Ammonia, nitrite and nitrate.

    Phosphate

    Inorganic salts (like sodium chloride)


    The quantity of carbon needed for an aquarium is about 3 tablespoons of carbon for each 50 Gallons of water. Carbon is quickly used up and can be removed after just 24-48 hours. If left in the system longer, it will no longer serve its purpose.


    Activated carbon will not remove trace elements and is safe to use in reef systems. The uptake of substances like iron, manganese, molybdenum, cadmium, zinc, and carbon dioxide are extremely limited and is insignificant if used only occasionally.

    Carbon in planted aquariums should be limited, because many fertilizers contain minerals in cheleated form. These cheleates will be absorbed by the carbon as organics.
     
  7. PSPANG

    PSPANG New Member

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    carbon filter removed ... frogbit continues to melt away :( just did about 50% WC ... lets see it'll turn the corner
     
  8. keithgh

    keithgh Moderator Staff Member

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  9. PSPANG

    PSPANG New Member

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    Day 25

    0 ammonia & nitrite so got some green neon tetras & oto catfish. Tank looks alive !!! Also got Pogostemon helferi - highly recommended by LFS

    [​IMG]
     
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  10. keithgh

    keithgh Moderator Staff Member

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    PSPANG

    What is your Nitrate?

    How many Ottos did you get as they like to be in a smaller school. A big school of Green Tetras would certainly lift your tank.
    Until your tank is fully established you might have to feed the Ottos with Algae Tabs.

    Keith :cat::cat:
     
  11. PSPANG

    PSPANG New Member

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    Sorry, haven't check nitrate :p

    Ammonia & Nitrite reading 0.

    There are 25x Green Neons and 3x Ottos. I'd also got 2 free shrimps - looks like NQ shrimps
     
  12. keithgh

    keithgh Moderator Staff Member

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  13. PSPANG

    PSPANG New Member

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    Hi Keith,

    I'll be ordering the Darwin Algae Shrimps from Aquagreen. The photo you'd posted is Darwin Red Nose Shrimp which is different from the Caridina sp NTnilotica. I read that the Red Nose Shrimps are fancier but DAS are better at cleaning up algae. Yes?
     
  14. keithgh

    keithgh Moderator Staff Member

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    PSPANG

    Get them before our hot summer sets in and make sure the Postal Delivery leave them in a cool place if you are not home.

    Darwin Algae Shrimp Caridina sp NTnilotica
    Lives quite well in fresh water and consumes algae and other detritus, good for clean up of unwanted food left overs.

    Darwin Red Nose Shrimp Caridina sp Gulf1
    It is a good species for the consumption of algae in the planted aquarium but Caridina sp. NTnilotica is better.

    Information from
    http://www.aquagreen.com.au/index.html

    Keith:cat::cat:
     
  15. PSPANG

    PSPANG New Member

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    Feeding time !!!

    [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
  16. Tim Harrison

    Tim Harrison Moderator Staff Member

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    Interesting scape, be good to see it fully grown in.
     
  17. keithgh

    keithgh Moderator Staff Member

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    PSPANG

    I used to suspend fruit using fishing line for my fish it would work the same for your shrimp.
    [​IMG]

    Keith:cat::cat:
     
  18. PSPANG

    PSPANG New Member

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    Keith - Do you boil the fruit before you drop it into the tank? Also how long would you leave it in?
     
  19. PSPANG

    PSPANG New Member

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    This hobby requires extreme patience ... I do hope it'll turn up great when the MC fully carpets
     
  20. keithgh

    keithgh Moderator Staff Member

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    With my fish would strip a pear core under 30min any pieces that fell to the substrate the bottom dwellers finished it off.

    I never pre treated foods first. Think what happens in the wild bits and pieces fall of trees and float down river or into lakes. You would be surprised what fish will eat.

    I have seen wild fish eat "Cigarette butts"

    Keith:cat::cat:
     

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