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10 Gallon Iwagumi Style - First Aquascape

Discussion in 'Aquascaping Journals' started by J Art, Jan 27, 2016.

  1. keithgh

    keithgh Moderator Staff Member

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    Shawn

    I always drained as much water as possible first returned all but 30-40% then topped up with new water.

    Keith:cat::cat:
     

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  2. ShadowMac

    ShadowMac Moderator Staff Member

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    One way to keep the water cleaner, but the purpose of the water change is to remove any detritus or ammonia released from the soil into the water column.
     
  3. keithgh

    keithgh Moderator Staff Member

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    Shawn I always did a good water change at the same time, I should have added followed up by several water 30-40% changes 2-3 days apart.

    Keith :cat::cat:
     
  4. J Art

    J Art Aspiring Aquascaper

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    I went up a half hour in light recently. I clicked the timer back this morning to the original 6 hours. I have a feeling my LEDs may be too powerful for the distance I have them from the surface. I may try raising them higher and see if i can squeeze some more time back into the lighting period.

    How did Amano get 10 hour lighting periods on his aquariums? It seems like for me the magic number is only 6.
     
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  5. ShadowMac

    ShadowMac Moderator Staff Member

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    Amano used a lot less light than we think. Tom Barr always said that...although he never really referenced how much. If you look at the videos they have a metal halide with tubes on their grand solar 1 and it is high above the tank. You'd be surprised how much that dissipates the intensity. The secrets aren't really secrets....we just usually end up ignoring them because we like to go fast and want to grow tanks full of colorful stems.

    Medium to low light, CO2, relatively easy to grow plants
     
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  6. ShadowMac

    ShadowMac Moderator Staff Member

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    in a hairgrass scape you also have to be cautious because the plant density really isn't that high ever. Slow and steady is the name of the game for that tank.

    I think raising the light up will help you extend the viewing time.

    rotalabutterfly.com has a light calculator on it...I didn't check to see how it worked or what it told you..but could be of use.
     
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  7. J Art

    J Art Aspiring Aquascaper

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    Not sure how accurate the calculator is....it's saying I have a PAR of about 112 with two 10 watt LEDs. But if it's anywhere near that at all....I probably have too much light....
     
  8. ShadowMac

    ShadowMac Moderator Staff Member

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    It would be really interesting to see how accurate it is. I know they are looking to collect data to make it better. I will maybe try to contribute with my PAR meter and the various lights I have.
     
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  9. J Art

    J Art Aspiring Aquascaper

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    @ShadowMac you were right about black making it feel too confined. I scraped off the black background and it looks 10 times better. Will post a pic soon.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
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  10. ShadowMac

    ShadowMac Moderator Staff Member

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    I think black backgrounds look best on very thick lush jungle looking scapes...to give the impression the scape disappears into the shadows of a jungle or forest. The open stone scapes look best just open with no background, a frosted background, or blue or white.

    I've thought about getting a background a little larger than my tank, matting and framing it, so that when behind it looks like the tank has been framed.
     
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  11. J Art

    J Art Aspiring Aquascaper

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    That's an interesting idea. If done well and tied into the rest of the room that could look pretty great.
     
  12. keithgh

    keithgh Moderator Staff Member

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    I have tried black but the last tank I used a slightly darker marine blue marine paint and that looked extremely natural particularly if the light was towards the front of the tank.

    Keith:cat::cat:
     
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  13. J Art

    J Art Aspiring Aquascaper

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    [​IMG]

    Don't judge my photo skills from this pic, but here's just after maintenance this morning and without the black background.

    If only I knew I'd be this deep into the hobby I would have sprung for a rimless tank instead of reusing this old 10g. But there's something to look forward to next time.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
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  14. J Art

    J Art Aspiring Aquascaper

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    Also raised the lights a little more which means light spill on the back wall. Might have to redesign the light hood to block excess spill, or maybe backlight the wall to make it even.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  15. J Art

    J Art Aspiring Aquascaper

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    Working on some lighting ideas for aqua-photos. Right off the bat....portrait ideas don't translate at all.

    _MG_8452.jpg
     
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  16. keithgh

    keithgh Moderator Staff Member

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    J Art

    If you ever get the opportunity try photographing bow fronted or corner curved fronted tank, that will give you an idea of what the average point and shoot camera members use.

    Keith:cat::cat:
     
  17. J Art

    J Art Aspiring Aquascaper

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    I use my iPhone half of the time. That photo looked better as a behind the scenes than the actual aquarium photo. I'll work out a good lighting system though. You won't need those lights to do it, I just happen to have them since I use them daily for work and the setup looked cool.
     
  18. keithgh

    keithgh Moderator Staff Member

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    J Art

    What I found best was at night with all window drapes closed that eliminated the window light reflections.

    Keith:cat::cat:
     
  19. J Art

    J Art Aspiring Aquascaper

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    That is certainly a good place to start.
     
  20. ShadowMac

    ShadowMac Moderator Staff Member

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    Only problem with that is your stems close up at night. Crypts even do it to some extent

    sent from tapatalk on my phone so auto correct and other errors are bound to happen
     

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