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| Equipment Don't know which filters, aquascaping tools, CO2 parts, and other aquariums supplies you need? |
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#1 (permalink) |
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Junior Aquascaper
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: igloo
Posts: 8
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As an example I will use a single fixture as my question. Sorry for not using incorrect terms, for posing this question.
What will be the Pro's and Con's of using a single T8 vs a T5 light fixture for a planted tank ? |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Germany
Posts: 2,145
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They all reach the bottom, the question is only how strong the light is on the bottom of the tank. At least it depends on what you want to achieve. Some folks are using mh lightning with success over a 60p tank others use t5ho over 60cm deep tanks with success. Everything is possible. With mh you'll achieve faster growth rates in a 60 deep tank with t5ho you'll probably have less algae or it will be more easy to maintain the tank because slower growth rates.
The amount of light reaching the bottom depends on water quality too.. Tell us what you want and we can advice the better solution |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Senior Aquascaper
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Brunei
Posts: 199
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T5 and T8 and all the other quotes or abbreviations are a blank to newies like me. Could the professionals and Masters here make it easy for us newies?
Sorry for this suggestion. But just thinking aloud, how it would have benefit the newies like me. warmest regards ![]() |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Junior Aquascaper
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Greece
Posts: 20
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T5, T8 are kinds of fluorescent lamps and mh (metal halide) is more complicated, works with the help of halogen and other gases. It's completely different from the T lamps.
The difference between T5 and T8 (there are also T3s) is that a 60cm T5 produces more wattage (actually we should be talking about lumens, this is the unit light is measured) than a T8, they also need a different starter as well as different "nozzles". The metal halide lamps look more like a common bulb with different insides and are much more stronger than these fluorescent lamps, also more expensive to buy and consume even more! File:Leuchtstofflampen-chtaube050409.jpg - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia File:Closeup Metal Halide Lamp.jpg - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Junior Aquascaper
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Costa Rica
Posts: 28
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Thank you very much Jur4ik! thats exactly what I wanted to know, I was looking for experience about how strong those lights are cause I have never use T5 or T5HO yet but sure i'll buy some at my first attempt of aquascaping!
T5HO (high output) is the latest flourescent tech, giving more lumens with less energy consume. |
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#10 (permalink) |
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Junior Aquascaper
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: igloo
Posts: 8
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I currently have a low-tech 20 Gallon (long) PLANTED tank, with only a 20watt T8 (24") light. I dose with Seachem Excel and Trace 1 cap full/ day, and a 20% WC every week.
What I do want is to restart my PLANTED tank, from a fresh start and do it properly. Where i necessarily don't want a high light tank, where maintenance is extremely finicky. I plan on the following for my next re-setup: - 2-2.5 max /wpg or might push it to 3 /wpg for light. (medium light) - Plan on getting 10lb CO2 Pressurized - Eco-Complete Substrate - Fertilizing enough for healthy growth. Some Flora(s) that I am interested in: - Low - Med tech plants - HC (this plant i LOVE from any plants out there ) - Glosso - Riccia - Utricularia graminifolia ^^^Just to name a few... ![]() And when it comes to light, well I am deeply confused. Since as fun as this hobby is, some times it is more trial n error. lol ***All this w/o putting a massive hole in the wallet. |
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#11 (permalink) |
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Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Germany
Posts: 2,145
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what are the tank dimensions?
in my opinion 2.5wpg are already "high tech" or better to say high light. it is indeed sometimes trial and error, but if you do a lot of research and check every point with pro´s there is definitely only little risk left for an error. I advice to start a journal with all information you have and to clear all questions before you spent any money. |
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#12 (permalink) | |
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Junior Aquascaper
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: igloo
Posts: 8
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Quote:
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#13 (permalink) | |
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Senior Aquascaper
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Atlanta GA
Posts: 274
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Quote:
Here is some info I collected T8 usually lasts 9,000 hours loses about 20% output T5 usually lasts 15,000 hours losing about 5% output Life span T5 NO (normal output) 6-8 mo T5 HO (high output) 16-24 months Lumens T8 2,950 T5 2,900 T5HO 5,000 T5HO vs T8 One- lamp T5 HO fixtures = 2-lamp T8 fixtures |
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#14 (permalink) |
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Junior Aquascaper
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Indonesia
Posts: 16
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maybe it is also good to place the link to the ADA light calculator.
Lighting in Amano Aquaria This is really refreshing to learns ADA use mostly an low rate as 2.1 Watt per gallon for his aquariums.. but for some small aquariums an high rate because of the high light lovers he has placed. Warm regards, PeterB01 |
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#15 (permalink) |
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Moderator
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Singapore
Posts: 909
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Light is tricky business because by right we suppose to measure PAR which is function of spectrum. Unfortunately the equipment to measure PAR is not easily available and it is not cheap either. Most hobbyist probably do not have it.
My approach to lighting is to put as many as can fit on top. Reason because it is easier to turn OFF one of the light bulb rather then get a new light set.
__________________
-Robert Aquascaping is a marriage between Art and Farming My Blog: http://aquatic-art.blogspot.com/
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