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#1 (permalink) |
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Junior Aquascaper
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: USA
Posts: 7
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Well, here it is.
Humble beginnings... ![]() Original Aquasoil Power Sand Special S Tourmaline BC Bacter 100 Nile Sand Eheim 2215 Hydor 200w inline ADA Lily Pipes (P2, V3) 5# CO2 cylinder JBJ Reg ADA Pollen Glass & Bubble Counter ADA Drop Checker 130w (2x65w) Coralife -- Will be replaced with 70w AquaMedic HQI Metal -Halide with 8000k bulb. Green Brighty step 1 Green Brighty Shade Brighty K ECA Green Gain Green Bacter Phyton Git Cyperus helferi Lilaeopsis Brasilensis Crypt petchii Crypt wenditii 'green' Crypt lucens Crypt 'Tropica' Myriophyllum mattogrossense Rotala indica Limnophila aromatica Echinodorus tennellus Peacock moss on rocks Needle leaf Java Bolbitis heudelotii Ludwigia arcuata 2.5 months later... ![]() ![]() |
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#12 (permalink) |
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Junior Aquascaper
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: USA
Posts: 7
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Thanks again for the comments everyone!
Hannes85 -- I bought the driftwood from someone who collects it himself. J House -- To be honest, the 2x65W CF light was only on the tank for a week, so I can't comment on growth differences. Appearance-wise, the 2 lights are worlds apart. Nothing can compare to the HQI. In the pics I've posted already, the bulb is an 8000K from watergrass.net. It's very, very green. It's probably best suited to an Iwagumi type layout where there is a primarily green layout. I've switched back to the stock 12,000K (seems more like 10000K) Aqua Medic bulb. What an incredible difference in the color rendition, not to mention the dramatic increase in the plants' pearling. All of my photos have been taken using the same camera, with the same settings. With Stock Aqua Medic 12000K HQI. ![]() |
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